Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Brief Christmas update

Alfred: OK – it has been a while … again. Below are a bunch of pictures from Christmas in Kibuye which, as the more perceptive of you may notice, includes ME! Yes, I finally got out of the bedroom in Gisagara where I have been stuck for fifteen months and got to see a bit of Rwanda. I suspect I may have to write the Christmas update myself as his nibs is a little too preoccupied these days with work, house refitting and …. well, the ‘other thing’ that we are all pretending isn’t actually happening at the moment. Oh, and he had malaria as well, or so he claims. The doctor said he did even though the blood test was negative. He also tested negative for typhoid, giardia, amoebas – in fact anything that can be detected in blood or stool (les selles – another new word for his ever-expanding French vocabulary). The doc said he might have malaria because doxycycline (which Ruairí takes as a preventive) can mask the actual presence of malaria in the blood test. If Ruairí had had the courage to tell the doctor that he hardly ever remembers to take his doxycycline anymore and that therefore there was no way it could be masking anything and that THEREFORE he was extremely unlikely to actually have malaria …. But no. He nodded, took his prescription and swallowed the eight tablets a day, thereby making himself feel a LOT worse than he had been doing hitherto. Oh, and of course he then went around for days telling people how he didn’t think he had malaria but the doctor had said he did, hoping to create a general pseudo-martyr sympathy for himself. He forgets most people here have actually had a touch of real malaria or at least know what it is like to really have it, so he’s not fooling anyone except himself (that he is actually quite good at, must be all the practice he gets).

Copyright notice: please note that the following images were 'borrowed' from Sarah Wragg and Martine Oliver because idiot here left his camera behind in a restaurant in Kigali before heading to Kibuye. Luckily, one of the guardian angels that we know hover over small children and congenital idiots ensured that the restaurant owner found the camera, kept it safe and returned it to Ruairí via a Canadian friend.




Me with Mel and then me again having opened my Christmas present (minature elephant to keep me company when I get stuck back in that bedroom again)

Christmas stockings hung by the chimney with care (all made by Sarah and Libby); Marion and Bruce's favourite monkey (who was impeccably behaved when we were there; some people even petted him)


Ruairí and Martine (Hi Trish in Florida - any comments on the shirt????)




Me and Martine; me and Ruairí

Crossing Lake Kivu (L) and gathering on Amahoro Island for 'Christmas dinner' (R)



Ruairí doing Secret Santa


In the boat on the way back; Ruairí, Sleeping Beauty and Jason on the left, John, Mel and Julie on the right




Martine



Libby, Karangwa and Libby



Julie, Janet (her mother) and Julie



April and Amy descending on the christmas cake (or maybe April was icing it?)





General April montage: April with what should have been our Christmas dinner; April icing the Christmas cake; April looking as if the hangover is setting in early; April sleeping like an angel.

Martine and Ruairí on the way back from Amahoro island: if you look closely you can see the start of what turned out be be a massive sunburn on Ruairí's neck and shoulders
Dinner at Bethanie; Mukesh


John and April; Ruairí being an idiot (count those fillings!!)


Sarah and Martine; Sarah demonstrating the new Rwandan Sign Language for the Deaf sign for 'Primus'

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Nice weekend - and it isn't even over yet!

HAPPY TIMES
As we gear up for Christmas it has been a really nice few days! On Friday I popped into Butare at seven a.m. to check the post and found, not just the long-awaited examination papers for Enoch's diploma exam but TWO parcels when I wasn't expecting any! One from my god-daughter Naomi's family in Greystones (Belgian chocolates!) and the other from my friend Seosamh (wind-up torch, book of folklore from Oileán Chléire, seven-page letter). Awesome! Then at work I spent a long time helpong a colleague put the final touches to his MA thesis on the effects of different kinds of mulching on banana plants and we spent an hour trying to figure out how to include standard deviation on Excel charts (Alfred: those of you who have only a passing acquaintance with Ruairí or know him only through this blog may need to be told that he is not being sarcastic or (as Alannis Morisette would say) ironic here - he REALLY enjoys this kind of thing because he can now 'enliven' conversations with his fellow VSO colleagues by saying things like "Well, of course, in most areas of Rwanda they are still mulching with hill grass but a 5cm layer of Elephant grass properly applied significantly boosts nitrogen levels and can increase fruit output by as much as 16.4%". The complete silence that greets such interjections shows how deeply impressed the audience are by such utterances.)

Then it was off to Butare on the work bus and up to Gitarama to visit Rebecca Young, another VSO volunteer. She lives in a really nice house that she is about to be moved out of as the water supply seems to be hopelessly contaminated - so far, she and Karen who shares the house with her have had typhoid (both), amoebas (both), giardia (Becky) and parasites (type unspecified - Karen). Tom from Food for the Hungry was also there. Anyway it was a wonderful evening, one of the most pleasant in ages. As soon as I arrived in dinner was served - chicken fajitas, guacamole, carrot salad, chips, beer, fruit salad and yoghurt and it was gorgeous. And the fajita mixture was made with real chicken sent all the way from Canada and the USA and tasted really nice. Then we chatted, played a game called Jenga Truth or Dare which involves removing wooden blocks from a large structure without making it collapse and then answering the question written on it (Truth) or performing the action (Dare). All new to me if old hat to others and a very pleasant evening.

Next morning I slept in until NINE O'CLOCK!!! Karen had made coffee and left it in the electric coffee machine and I had it and bread and bananas and an egg. (Alfred:The egg turned out to be uncooked when he cracked it open so there was a wonderful five minutes while he wandered around looking helpless with a cracked-open raw egg in his hands while Becky set up the hotplate and found him a frying-pan!). Then the bus back to Butare, meeting another VSO Helen on the way, met Sarah in Butare who is now back from Kigali after her three weeks working for MINEDUC (Alfred: and a wonderful. character-building experience that was, from her accounts). Then we met up with our landlord who drove us out to Gisagara and spent an hour there with his nephew-electrician discussing all the wiring that is going to be put into our house so we will have electricity for the early New Year!!

PHOTOS
The photos I put on the blog are, of necessity, very compressed. I have now uploaded some of my favourites onto my page in Flickr if anyone is interested. Only some of them are up yet as it takes a VERY long time - each photo is between 1.5MB and 2MB and at an upload speed of 2-3kbps ... well, you can do the Maths yourself. (Alfred: Emmm, surely 'yourselves'? Or do you think there is only one person out there reading this blog?) So if you are reading this and are in Rwanda, avoid the page. If you have a good connection speed you can find them at http://www.flickr.com/ and just type 'Ruairi' and 'Rwanda' into the search and you should find me.


TIGER WOODS
Alfred: Haven't exactly been able to keep up with all the details of what the hell happened here but I thought this one was rather clever:

Tiger, Tiger, bleeding bright
In the driveway of the night
What small Swedish hand or wrist
With a three-wood your head kissed?

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Hi everyone!

Just a brief scribble - just got in from the pub where I managed to limit myself to ONE beer in two hours (Alfred: this being the third night in a row he has been up there with Enock). Enock got one of the new TIGO modems and, while they are a lot cheaper, they seem to be just as crap as the MTN ones, so no improvement there. It was announced on the radio today that the start of the school year in 2010 is being delayed from January 11th to February 2nd to allow extra time for English training (and, no doubt, completing the building of all the new classrooms that are curently under construction). That is going to make my January a lot more complicated - I have a two-day Education VSO conference on 14th-15th January and then I am supposed to be in Kigali for eight days helping with the in-country training for the new intake of volunteers (Alfred: and saying 'goodbye' to Martine as well - weren't going to mention that, were you?)
Work has kind of petered to a halt this week for no reason that I can tell - not just me but most people in the District Office seem similarly disaffected. However, the landlord rang to arrange for an electrician to come and wire the house over Christmas so at least HE thinks the electricity is actually going to make it as far as us! A surreal sight this evening on my way to the pub - I could see Christmas lights flashing on and off in one of the shop doorways. When I got there this guy was making them flash on and off by pressing the ends of the exposed wires to a car battery!
More soon - I leave you with my favourite picture of those I have taken so far in Rwanda! Reminds me of Peig in some strange fashion .... (I think you get the full-size version if you click on it. I hope to upload the really big one - along with others - onto my Flickr page soon. Just go to Flickr and type in Ruairí and Rwanda)
PS: What is this sh*t about people queueing up in Listowel to shake hands and sympathise with a convicted sex offender? Please someone tell me it is some kind of joke .......

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Christmas is coming and the .... em, goats are getting fat!

Alfred: for a guy who spends his days whining about how little work he has to do, you'd think he could use some of it to update the blog! But, truth to tell, you aren't missing much, life has been very quiet recently. It now looks like English training has been postponed until after Christmas which is going to cause havoc for Ruairí as he volunteered to be with the new VSO intake for about ten days in January - tough choice. Given Martine is leaving on January 21st, no bets are being taken on which option he is going to go for given the choice .....

Christmas plans are well afoot - ten of them are off to Kibuye together for three or four days (I say 'them' advisedly as I don't think his Lordship has any plans to bring me along. He is already having sleepless nights wondering how he is going to cart that mountain of electronic equipment he seems to bring everywhere with him up to Kibuye and back via Kigali. I mean, it's only four days and he is going to be with friends, and Martine, and wonderful scenery, and beer - does he really need a laptop, MP3 player, Palm Pilot, camera, surge protector, recharger leads for all of the above??). At least he will have time to write his blog instead of leaving me to take up the slack!

Re the last blog entry by the way, a slight correction - the prize for the District for being number One in the anti-corruption listing was one million francs (€1,250) and not ten million as Ruairí reported. It is going to be spent on a staff outing, possibly to Gisenyi.


OK - I'll start nagging him again, watch this space!

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Wild weekend ... and other stuff

LONG WEEKEND

Got the bus to Butare after work on Thursday to meet my friend from Gikongoro (whom we all refer to as South African John even though the other Johns have since left) for dinner. A very pleasant evening in the Chineese restaurant, where the service was slightly less slow than normal and we were undercharged on the bill. Mukesh, an Indian co-worker of John’s, came with him and we had a really nice long chat, staying there until 2300.

One of the reasons for coming in was that I needed to go to the District Immigration office in Huye and get my green card renewed. But first I went to the post office to see if anything had come in – and quelle surprise: THREE large parcels!! OK, two of them were my Amazon order which they had sent in two packs and the third was a parcel from New Zealand for another volunteer, Jane Keenan, who used to work in Butare. In fact Jane was leaving Rwanda in two days’ time so one the one hand at least the parcel got here before she left but she was unlikely to be able to use the contents much!

The reason for going to Butare for my green card was that my local immigration officer never seems to be in his office so I decided to go to the District Office in Huye (Alfred: Huye = Butare: Another of these places that now has a new official name and an old, traditional one which is still what most people use. These things take time, when Mukesh told Ruairí that he was from Mumbai ,it was probably the first time that he didn’t mentally translate it into ‘Bombay’ in his head). Unfortunately, even though I had gone through the entire process with Sarah a few weeks before, I had completely forgotten exactly what I had to do and went to the offices in the wrong order. The procedure is as follows (for this district, I hasten to add, it’s different elsewhere):

Get a photocopy of your passport and current visa and two passport-sized photographs
Go to the bank and pay the RWF5000 fee and get a receipt
Take the receipt to the Rwanda Revenue Authority Office and get a receipt for the receipt
Take the receipt for the receipt to the District Immigration Office between 0800 and
1200 on a Friday morning with the two photographs and they will complete your card.

Anyway, I went to the Revenue Authority first, who turned out to have moved offices. By the time I went to the bank there was a queue of seventy-four people waiting to be served so I gave up (Alfred: Yes, he actually counted them. Words fail me …). Headed off to Kigali, called in on my Kenyan friend Abraham and gave him the three volumes of Peter Hamilton’s Night’s Dawn trilogy (we are fellow SF fans but he has a hard time laying his hands on books), met Martine, went to a Rwanda Revenue Office and got my receipt (it’s easier in Kigali – you don’t have to go to the bank as well),went to the bank anyway to get some cash out of the machine – the machine gave me my cash but kept the card and they told me to come back Saturday morning – and then lunch in a place called La Sierra which I had never been in before , went back to Nyamirambo to drop off the bag and then off to Pasadena to meet Jane Keenan and her friends for farewell drinkies.

It was my first time in Pasadena, a restaurant/bar somewhere in Gikondo-Nyenyeri and I can’t say I was impressed overall. Service slow and inefficient as usual, some interesting dancing to watch (they do salsa nights here as well) but a nice group of people (Alfred: I persuaded him not to actually go through each of them one by one, no need to thank me, I did it for my sanity as well as yours). Then six of us got into a taxi to head home – four of us to Martine’s in Nyamirambo (with Jean and Jane) and dropping two friends/cousins of Jean’s off along the way.

Well, I have taken many interesting, strange and frankly scary journeys around Rwanda in my fifteen months here but this one was definitely in the top five. You forget that there are roads right in the centre of Kigali as bad as anything out in the rural areas. The big tarmac roads loop around the city and in between them is a dense network of tracks and paths. We took these to get to where Jean’s friends/cousins lived and a slow, tortuous, bumpy route it was. The Toyota Corolla’s suspension was OK but not designed for these roads with seven people on board – the soreness of my rear end was only mitigated by my having to focus on not getting concussion from banging my head off the roof.

Once we dropped John Bosco and his companion off I figured things would get better but almost immediately we got to a really steep climb, at the bottom of which the car got stuck in a sandy bit. So everyone piled out, the car backed up and then tried to take a run at it (difficult given the holes, crevasses, gullies and whatnot that the road ‘surface’ was comprised of). After a few goes he managed and roared away, pursued by us who were now worried we would get left in the middle of nowhere. When we caught up with the car again, there was no driver in it but he shortly re-emerged from the bushes doing up his fly – glad to know it wasn’t only us who were nervous (Alfred: Really? You think it is more comforting when the driver is ALSO scared? You need to think this one through, mon vieux).

Eventually we came to where the dirt track joined the main road to Nyamirambo and the driver immediately pulled up and said that he had run out of petrol. It seemed rather sudden (it would be far from the first time that I have been in a vehicle in Rwanda that ran out of fuel) but we got out of the car anyway. As we did so, we noticed there was a police checkpoint at the junction we were heading to and the reason for the sudden fuel loss became clear!!

Anyway, we got four motos home and then sat up to all hours chatting – Jane opened her big parcel and then shared out the contents as she could hardly bring them home with her. I got a bag of TVP for Sarah, popping corn, falafel mix, and some ground cumin and coriander.

Saturday was mostly frustrating – into town latish, went to the bank and queued for forty minutes to be told the cash machine maintenance guy hadn’t turned up the previous day and I would have to come back the following week, then went to Kisimenti to meet Jane for a farewell lunch but she got behind schedule so eventually we all just met up at the airport. And even then she was running so late that when she got there she went straight through to check-in so we ended up just waving at her through the security barrier. Then Martine and I went to visit Cathryn in Kirsti’s house and I met the most wonderful dog called Buffet, an enormous black Labrador who I think I have now volunteered to walk at various stages over the Christmas when I am free.

Then I went to join Thom for what turned out to be the highlight of the weekend – watching Chelsea getting beaten and playing miserably against Manchester City at the Chez Lando hotel. Actually the game wasn’t the highlight. Both of us were hungry so I ordered an omelette speciale (Alfred: for the uninitiated, an omelette speciale is an omelette containing pretty much whatever has been left around the kitchen bound up in eggs. It always has tomatoes and onions in it, almost always chips, and sometimes can contain any one of – or all of – the following: rice, peas, spaghetti, cheese, green beans) (one of my staples) and settled back. Eventually it arrived and … well, how do I describe it?

Imagine a Scottish amoeba, from a tough background that has fallen on even harder times. Imagine it going on a binge in a seedy pub in the backstreets of Glasgow where it got embroiled in the amoeba-equivalent of a fist fight (a pseudopodia scuffle, I suppose) in which it came off second-best. Staggering from the pub, bruised and battered – that’s what the object on my plate resembled. At the very least an omelette should be round – this one (hence the amoeba comparison) was anything but. Frankly, it looked as if it had been dropped and not very expertly reassembled on the plate (I did actually check the underside for gravel, hair etc). Anyway, I was hungry, it tasted OK and I ate it.

Then came the bill. You always have to check bills here VERY carefully and there was obviously something wrong with this one. I called over the waiter: ‘C’est quatre milles francs pour l’omelette speciale?’ I said in a slightly falsetto tone that tried to convey the obvious absurdity of the rhetorical question I was posing. ‘Oui, monsieur, quatre mille’ said my impassive counterpart, no doubt reciting the Kinyarwandan equivalent of ‘Here we go again’ in his head. Well, I figured it was my fault for not asking in advance (another thing you always do if there is no menu available) and paid up with a minimum of cursing and swearing.

The cursing and swearing resumed once I got home to Nyamirambo and made a beeline for the toilet, an object whose acquaintance I came to make in a more than usually intimate degree over the next twelve hours (thankfully Martine had had the plumbing repaired the previous week so it was no longer necessary to flush it by slowly filling buckets of water from the shower and pouring them in).

Sunday – well, uneventful. Pottered around, then into town, a bit of shopping, bus to Butare, a beer (Alfred: ah yes, just the thing when you have a gippy tum, pour in a 72cl bottle of chilled Turbo King!) and then headed home. As I hadn’t seen my friend Enock all week I gave him a buzz and invited him for a quick beer. Bad mistake. Suffice to say I didn’t get to bed until 0120 and when your alarm is set to 0520 that’s a toughie.


SCIENCE CHAT-UP LINES (I nicked this from a Facebook group thanks to Freddie Hayden):


Would there be any resistance if I took you ohm?

I’ve had my ion you for some time.

Would kissing you increase global warming and damage the Arctic irreversibly, or is it just enough to break the ice?

You're so hot you denature my proteins.

If I was an enzyme I'd be DNA-helicase so I could unzip your genes...

You're so sweet I am developing insulin resistance.

Girl, I want to be your differential because then I’d be touching all your curves.

You fascinate me more than the Fundamental Theorem of Calculus.

Let's convert our potential energy to kinetic energy.

How about me and you go back to my place and form a covalent bond?

Seismically speaking, geologists make your bed rock.

You are sin2 X and I am cos2 X and together, we are one.

I less than three you….. (I <>

Your love is sweeter than 3.14159265...

How can I know the 100 digits of Pi and not the 11 of your phone number?

I'm not being obtuse, but you're acute girl.

I need some help with my calculus; can you integrate my natural log?

Your skin is as smooth as an endoplasmic reticulum.

You’re like telophase, I admire your cleavage.

Hey baby, want to form a synapse with me and exchange neurotransmitters?
Hey baby, can I be your enzyme? Because my active site is dying for a chemical reaction.

Can I plug my solution into your equation?

Baby, you turn my floppy disk turn into a hard drive.

I think my heart just lagged.

You’re so cute you make my zygomaticus muscles contract.

I’m POSITIVE I’d like your electron, want to bond?

I heard you're sin because you're always on top when we make tangent.

Looking at you, creationists may have a point after all.

Hey baby, I think you are 1/Cos C (Sec C)

WORST EVER NEWSPAPER MISPRINT?

I have always had a soft spot for these, part of my proofreading OCD probably. Anyway, surfing the net with Enock the other night, we were looking on Google News for any news from his home district of Kabale in southern Uganda and came across this item in the New Vision, a Ugandan daily newspaper:

A number of schools in Kabale District, Southern Uganda, were closed last week when three students tasted positive for dysentery.

GISAGARA DISTRICT RULES OK!
I may have mentioned before that I was the first ever overseas volunteer to work in this district. Well, it took them a while to get used to me and me to them but I have to say overall they are a pretty good bunch of people. There are thinks that infuriate me, things are incredibly inefficient from time to time but, judging from what I hear from other areas, they are doing a pretty good job.

And then two pieces of information – one to explain it and one to underline it. Firstly, the present districts date from 2006 when the old provincial, prefecture and sub-prefecture structure was scrapped. Elections were held in 2006 for a mayor in each of the 30 districts of Rwanda. The next election is scheduled for 2010 but, of the original 30, 28 have since been removed from office for corruption, inefficiency or whatever. Only Nyaruguru District and Gisagara District still have their original mayors! Nice one KAREKEZI Léandre! And not only that, we still have the same Executive Secretary. No wonder we have gone from 16th to 10th to 4th ranked district in Rwanda in the space of three years. Next year number 1!

Secondly, when I went to see the Executive Secretary yesterday (Wednesday – the timeline has got a bit confused) I was told he was in Kigali with the mayor to receive our award for being number one district in the anti-corruption campaign. And the prize? A certificate and a medal? No – ten million Rwandan francs (about €12,500) – a huge amount of money. Interesting idea – pay people not to be corrupt. Next question is what to do with it, eh? Watch this space.

THE RETURN OF JEREMY?

Some people may remember Jeremy, a bat who lives in my attic with his hundreds of cousins and who made a brief appearance in this blog some months ago (and wrote a comment too if I remember correctly). Well either he or a cousin reappeared the other night, flying wildly around the sitting room and crashing into the walls, window, my head, some books, the door and the sofa before eventually running full tilt into one wall and knocking himself out. I thought he had actually found his way out and went back to reading my book by the light of my head-torch. It was only when I was going to bed that I noticed something lying on the floor (JUST before stepping on it). Bats look really strange on the floor so it took me a while to figure out what it was. Anyway, having had previous experience I grabbed a big square lunchbox, whacked it down over him, slid the lid underneath and released him into the garden. Once he was in the box he certainly woke up and moved around like the bejaysus so I am hoping once released he soared off into the night air and freedom. If not he probably got eaten by something as he lay in the grass. Life is tough.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

RANDOM NOTES FROM ALFRED (and Ruairí too, actually…)

TURBO KING
(Alfred: being teetotal myself I can’t speak with any great authority or immediate personal experience about Rwandan beers but I have had numerous opportunities to observe their effect on my lord and master. Basically, for those of you who have not been here, there are two main Rwandan beers, Primus which comes in a 72cl bottle at 5% proof and Mützig which comes in a 65cl bottle and is 5.5% and a bit more expensive. They are both lager-type beers and taste good. Actually, it should be pointed out that both types come in a 33cl bottle as well but Ruairí – after 15 months – still seems unaware of this fact. You can also get other beers – Amstel, Guinness and Heineken and some posh places also do imported Ugandan and Kenyan beers.

But now we have a third beer from the great Bralirwa Brewery in Gisenyi with the wonderful name of TURBO KING and a picture of a growling lion on it (memo to Ruairí: photo needed). It is a dark beer in a 72cl bottle and 6.5% proof. Strong stuff. The billboards advertising it show a huge bottle of TURBO KING thrusting dramatically through a concrete floor with the slogan ‘MARK OF A MAN’. Ruairí said it tasted of mice but he was slurring so badly he may have been trying to say something different …..)


On the topic of marketing, Bralirwa launched a huge advertising campaign last year to promote Mützig with the slogan ‘La goûte de réussite/The Taste of Success’, resulting in a catastrophic drop in sales of Primus which was promptly dubbed ‘loser’s beer’. This year they have been trying to redress the balance with a huge Primus campaign celebrating its 50th anniversary. At least not as bad as some of the other slogans and brand names you get here – anyone for Climax toilet freshener or Gislady sanitary towels? I thought not … )


Commonwealth, France and Landmines
Well, yesterday was a pretty awesome day here in Rwanda. Despite some concerns over human rights issues Rwanda’s application to join the British Commonwealth was accepted, only the second country to join that was never actually a British colony at any stage (Mozambique is the other and you can check it out on Wikipedia if you want the details on how that happened). And simultaneously it was announced that Rwanda and France are to restore normal diplomatic relations after three years of pretty much open hostility. And then later that day Rwanda was officially declared landmine-free under the terms of the Ottawa Treaty signed in 2008. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottawa_Treaty and http://allafrica.com/stories/200911300008.html if you are interested).

So a pretty damn good day all round – though one of the articles on the BBC website did bring a wry grin. Presumably the title was composed by someone in the BBC but it could just as well have been someone in Rwanda – ‘What would the Commonwealth do for Rwanda?’ (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/8382676.stm) Rwanda may be in for a bit of a shock if they think that Commonwealth is anything other than symbolic, other than maybe for Rwandans trying to get work or study permits for the UK. I don’t think wandering around the Commonwealth Conference bleating ‘amafaranga, give me money’ is going to get very far at the moment.

The re-establishment of ties with France is particularly good news if it marks a step towards abandoning the extreme anti-French policy of the moment. In a country where a lot of people have a good standard of French, the policy – whether officially or not – will have the result of replacing French with English rather than trying to have both. Poised strategically as it is in the Great Lakes region between the francophone Democratic Republic of Congo on one side and the Anglophone East African Community on the other (of which Rwanda is now a member and which membership was the basis for their being allowed into the Commonwealth), Rwanda would be able to have the best of both worlds if it retained linguistic and cultural ties with the francophone African countries, an ability no other country in East Africa would have. On verra. (Alfred: The only worrying aspect about this is that I actually heard Ruairí saying something complimentary about Nicolas Sarkozy the other day! I mean, I’m all for international peace and harmony but steady on!)

The Murphy Commission and the IRA
Mentioned this before but have just finished reading the first part of the report last night in bed and haven’t the stomach to start on the second part quite yet. I remember in my youth and early adulthood the embarrassment or ennui of constantly hearing people respond with ‘IRA’, ‘car bombs’ or ‘Oh – that’s where all the Protestants and Catholics are killing each other, isn’t it?’ whenever you mentioned you were from Ireland. Seems like the good old days now……

Elie, April’s Bad Taste Birthday Party, the Ambassador’s Dinner and Football
April Lyons had a great birthday party in Gitarama on the night of the first Ireland-France World Cup Qualifier match – it was fancy dress and the theme was ‘Bad Taste’ – I think I managed to live up to the billing. I had come up to Gitarama the previous afternoon and met up with Karen in town for a drink. This random Rwandan guy materialised out of the darkness and stood by our table and I suddenly realised it was my friend Elie from Butare who is now studying in Kabgayi University in Gitarama. It was so good to see him again, though he has not been working on his English as much as I hoped. Luckily Karen’s French is good so that was OK. So the next day after the market shopping for our Bad Taste Outfits, Martine and I met him for a drink – a long leisurely drink as it turned out – and then he came to the party with us. However we had to leave after a short while to go and watch the Ireland-France match. Nice hotel called Landos with a really nice bar, though not a nice result. I also found out that drinking Mützig in the afternoon, waragi (Ugandan gin) at the party and then two Turbo Kings on top is a recipe for getting quite pissed (Alfred: see TURBO KING entry above) but I managed to get home OK, or somebody got me home anyway. A great night and it was nice to see people like Paul and Anna whom I hadn’t seen in ages. (Alfred: and once Ruairí gets around to making Facebook friends with April, he may be able to steal some photos of the occasion to show you!)

(Alfred: Oh Lord – OK, I didn’t actually say it to him because he was having so much fun going around Gitarama Market with Martine looking at awful shirts and other stuff but he could have turned up in pretty much anything he owns – that orange and black Kampala shirt? The one from Las Vegas with the blue pineapples? The various caftan-type things he has bought or his Nigerian igwe costume some of you may have seen on earlier pages? Granted, the leopard-skin hat with plastic rose attached was a step further than his usual attire but I have seen him looking at the shirt he bought with fondness since the event! Martine bought what she hoped was going to be a pretty awful shirt – black with huge flames licking up from the waist – but only succeeded in looking even hotter than she usually does. IMHO)

The following Wednesday it was up to Kigali as Kevin Kelly, the Irish Ambassador to Rwanda was in town and had invited all Irish citizens to join him for dinner. Apparently there are 14 of us in the entire country, at least that are known to be here. I was amazed that it was so few – usually you find us everywhere! Karen and I arrived late but it was a great night with lovely food and wine. But, it turned out the restaurant had no TV so, à la April’s party, eight of us ducked out early to find somewhere to watch the match. We ended up in the MTN Centre in a nice bar and watched the rest of what transpired. Most of the Rwandans were supporting France but after the ‘incident’ …… ah crap, nothing worse than well-meaning sympathy when you are feeling that annoyed. Mind you, I was surprised at the extent of reaction back home – remember how sympathetic we were to the English when Diego Maradonna had his ‘Hand of God’ incident? Or how we qualified for Euro 1988 courtesy of an illegal Scottish goal in Sofia? Shit happens.

Bye bye Bruce at Home St Jean
I went to Kibuye for the weekend to say goodbye to Bruce Upton who has just finished his second year here. We stayed at Home St Jean which is on a different part of the lake to Bethany where I stayed with my mother in August but it is probably even more beautiful, closer to town and has the worst service that I have experienced yet in Rwanda (Alfred: steady on now, that’s one hell of a claim to make. Remember the two-and-a-half hour breakfast in the Hotel Splendide where they didn’t have any Blue Band or powdered milk or bread?) Well, maybe, but Home St Jean is designed to deal with large groups on a regular basis so how can they still be so bad? We did walk down to another place called the Golf Hotel which is on a nice little bay and is not actually that much more expensive given that breakfast is included. Anyway, we had a nice time though everyone went walking and swimming and, in Bruce’s case, got attacked by a monkey (the same one that attacked Marion a few weeks ago) so after dinner everyone was too knackered for the salsa dancing Bruce had planned!! But it was a nice couple of days and it was also nice that only half the people there were VSO – good to see Nathan and Tom and Karen and the others again (Alfred: 'the others'! Ruairí is afraid he won't spell the names properly! He also tells me Tom got his hair cut REALLY short and removed his beard. He used to look like Jesus is supposed to have looked like – need to get myself a photo) and I was also able to book the accommodation for Christmas because eight of us are coming up here for four days. Should be nice. Here are some photos of what the place looks like. (Alfred: well, the flowers and bugs and stuff anyway. Don’t get this – surely a picture of a butterfly could have been taken anywhere? Why no pictures of the actual people who came – Helen and Soraya and Bruce and Nathan and ….. meh!)










Three views from the balcony outside our bedroom the afternoon we arrived


Same view the following morning



Baby papayas



Very adult papayas
























Martine in pensive mood by the lake






Lakeside near where you can go swimming

Food
(Alfred: One of the things that people most often ask about is: ‘What does he eat?’ Well, since Sarah arrived, a slightly wider range of foods it has to be said but the main limiting factor is what’s available in the local market – so that’s tomatoes, peppers, onions, cabbage, potatoes, imboga (kind of spinach), beans (dried and occasionally green), corn in season, bananas and mangoes. There are other things that he doesn’t eat – cassava, intoryi (small green aubergines which are foul),sweet potatoes and plantain. Sarah and Martine did decide to cook plantain one night but, while it tasted nice, it was an amazing amount of effort and the cutlery was almost impossible to clean afterwards.

He and Sarah eat a lot of rice and occasionally pasta with sauces made from the above vegetables and also occasionally lentils or chickpeas which they get in Kigali (occasionally because one tin of chickpeas costs 15-25% of a day’s income). There is also a range of ready-made Indian meals by Ashoka which are really good – foil boil-in-the-bag things at RWF1800 each to feed two people.

And there are avocados. Avocados here are really cheap – four or five for RWF100 (11c)- and absolutely gorgeous. Apparently back in the 1960s some President of Rwanda ordered every family to plant an avocado tree so they would have cheap nutritious food to eat for part of the year so they are everywhere. Ruairí and Sarah share one every mealtime as a starter and get quite upset if they run out.

So, to celebrate this fact, I decided to write a poem. Ruairí quite likes writing poems from time to time (see September’s blog for the ‘Ode to Andy’) but I don’t see why I shouldn’t have a go. Mind you, finding rhymes for ‘Rwanda’ and ‘avocado’ isn’t easy …….



AVOCADO – THE BEST!

Since he’s come here to Rwanda
Ruairí likes his avocado,
Smiling like La Gioconda
He spreads it thin on a tostado,
Just like in ‘A Fish Called Wanda’
(Or was it not in ‘Silverado?’),
Tastes better than fried anaconda
As was served in ‘El Dorado’
Or worn by Mrs C. Miranda
When she sang in ‘The Mikado’. *

Eat them out on the verandah
Or when visiting the Prado,
Eat them when you’re in Uganda
Eat them out of sheer bravado,
Share it with a peon and a
Moustachioed desperado,
Smear a morsel on Jane Fonda
In the sands of Colorado,
Eat them digging in the Rhondda
Or when incommunicado.

Whether you’re a Chinese panda
Or Nelly ‘Broken Strings’ Furtado,
In charge of Danish propaganda
Or famous cyclist P. Delgado
The finest flavour in Rwanda
Just has to be ripe avocado.

* OK, so Carmen Miranda wasn't in 'The Mikado', give yourselves a break and save the outraged emails!