Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Message from Rwanda

Hello to all my email contacts! Apologies if this is getting sent
accidentally to anyone but I have such a long list (and internet
speeds in Rwanda so slow) that keeping my contacts up to date has been
a nightmare.

Anyway, many people asked me to let them know if I was considering
doing any fundraising or getting involved in any other projects while
I was here. So this is my blog entry for January 28th in which I lay
out some of the ideas. I would really appreciate any feedback people
feel like giving me or any further suggestions they may have.

By the way, if you haven't been following my blog (Alfred: and shame
on you if you haven't, though it is SO wordy and detailed that you
could hardly be blamed) you can find it at www.roheithir.blogspot.com
(about the length of a short novel at this stage).

Alfred is a teddybear my students gave me to keep an eye on me while I
am over here – he insists on taking over my blog from time to time (I
blame Isabelle Duff).

Blog Entry for Wednesday 28th January: Day One Hundred and Forty Four
in Rwanda (Alfred: gross exaggeration! Ha ha ha ha ha ha!)

Hi there everyone! Dying of a chest infection (my friends and family
know this is par for the course with me and the Klacid Paul Carson
gave me before I left is doing the trick) but in good spirits overall.
The English classes continue to drive me demented - ten people turned
up today but no more than six of them were ever in the room at the
same time as they kept on getting called out for meetings, phone calls
and whatever. I just carried on regardless (words of a song? someone
tell me please).

Anyway, as I said before, a number of people - colleagues, family and
friends - have all said that they would be interested in supporting
any projects that I might start off here in Rwanda. When I came out
here I had various ideas of what I might do - buy cows for people,
install water systems in schools, sponsor children to continue on to
secondary school and whatever. Surprise, surprise, many of those ideas
have changed since I came into contact with the reality of Rwanda. One
thing is that whatever you do really needs to be a once-off: it is
very difficult to set up an ongoing project and then arrange for it to
continue when you leave. Second, Rwanda is INCREDIBLY bureaucratic -
if you want to set up an actual organisation the obstacles are immense
(and expensive).

Thirdly, there are some needs that are actually being reasonably well
met by either the government or various ONGs (as I have now learned to
call NGOs). There is a raft of provisions for genocide orphans (though
tough luck if you are an orphans for any other reason). The whole
HIV/AIDS area is - if anything - over resourced or, to be more
accurate, overstaffed. there are actually HUNDREDS of separate (and
mostly uncoordinated) HIV/AIDS projects going on here, most of them
concentrated in the same areas, leaving other areas neglected. You can
buy people cows if you want (hi Horst) and there are actually
professional cow-buyers who will do it for a fee which is a lot less
than they will rip a muzungu off for in the cattle market, but how
many people actually have the land for a cow (Alfred: trust me: buy
them a cow and they'll find it!). My friend Jane Keenan did organise
this so that is one possibility (I think they are usually bought for
widows with no means of support).

Coming to Rwanda, obviously the genocide and its after-effects was
uppermost in my mind. Today I finished reading Philip Gourevitch's
book We Wish to Inform you that Tomorrow we Will Be Killed With Our
Families which is possibly the best book I have read on Rwanda so far.
One of the themes he talks about is the injustices - unavoidable
injustices - that happen in times of crisis. I have been struck (as
readers of my blog will know) at the number of innocent people who
have ended up in prison while many guilty walk the streets free. For
those of us who grew up with memories of Nicky Kelly, the Guilford and
the Birmingham Six, cases like this really strike a chord (Alfred: he
actually typed cord originally - how embarrassing!!)

There are also aspects of Rwandan society that take a lot of getting
used to. Everyone is AMAZED when I say I am not married and do not
have any children, and I mean AMAZED. When you ask men if they are
married, and they aren't, they immediately trot out a load of reasons
why it hasn't happened yet, because they are really embarrassed if
they are not. Family is all-important here and if you don't have it,
you are completely bereft. Orphans are looked after by the extended
family (or the state in the case of genocide orphans) but a single
parent, an unmarried mother or women raped and made pregnant during
the genocide lead very lonely and unsupported lives.

There is an amazing absence of art here, in all its forms. English is
taught as grammar - the idea of creative writing is virtually foreign.
There is a tradition of poetry and some writing from the 19th century
but is barely exists today. Art and music are similarly neglected:
there is only one Art Studio and Gallery in the whole country and
these subjects are utterly neglected in the vast majority of schools.

So I would like your ideas on the following:

1. A while ago, a VSO volunteer, Marion Woolley and a Ugandan
woman, Jasmine Rizik set up a Rwandan NGO called Tabara, an
organisation dedicated to helping single parents in Rwanda (initially
focussing on Kigali). The membership includes some single fathers
(which is really amazing in a Rwandan context) and you can read more
about their aims and objectives at this link:
http://www.tabara.net/englishindex.html. You can also read an
entertaining account of their first public meeting on Marion's blog at
http://heathenblogging.blogspot.com/2008/09/tabara-public-meeting.html

2. Some of my regular blog readers will know the story of Déo
Nuwayo, my regular moto0 driver. Before the genocide, he owned a taxi
company and was a successful businessman. After the genocide he was
denounced and put in prison for thirteen years. While he was in
prison, everything he owned was taken. After thirteen years he came to
trial and was immediately released - the courts said it was a case of
mistaken identity (or malicious denunciation) and he was cleared of
having taken any part whatsoever. When he was released, he received no
compensation whatsoever and had lost his house, business, cars, his
wife had died and he has four children to support.

Today he hires a motorbike each day for RWF5000 and tries to make
enough to pay for that, pay for petrol and still earn enough to keep
his family. His main hope is to be able to buy his own motorbike
(which would cost RWF1.3m or about €2,000) but, at this rate it is
going to take him a long time.

Sometimes calamity falls on someone from out of nowhere - maybe
sometimes assistance can arrive the same way!!

3. The Kivu Writers' Workshops were set up by a VSO volunteer, Ben
Pollitt, in 2000 with the aim of creating a literary culture among
Rwandan youth. They hold creative writing competitions each year and
the twenty winners (10 boys and 10 girls) are invited to the workshops
held in Kibuye in Western Rwanda, on the shores of Lake Kivu. You can
read more about the workshops and the organisation on
http://www.vso.org.uk/kivu/ and also read some of the material on
www.voicesfromrwanda.org.

So those are my three ideas at the moment. What I am asking you (blog
readers and email contacts, because I am sending this entry out by
email also) is to tell me what you think of these ideas, and whether
you would be interested in supporting any of them. If you are
interested, I will be sending on details later about how exactly you
can help, but I am just looking for feedback at the moment
(roheithir@gmail.com}

Projects

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.

Hi there everyone! Dying of a chest infection (my friends and family know this is par for the course with me and the Klacid Paul Carson gave me before I left is doing the trick) but in good spirits overall. The English classes continue to drive me demented - ten people turned up today but no more than six of them were ever in the room at the same time as they kept on getting called out for meetings, phone calls and whatever. I just carried on regardless (words of a song? someone tell me please).

Anyway, as I said before, a number of people - colleagues, family and friends - have all said that they would be interested in supporting any projects that I might start off here in Rwanda. When I came out here I had various ideas of what I might do - buy cows for people, install water systems in schools, sponsor children to continue on to secondary school and whatever. Surprise, surprise, many of those ideas have changed since I came into contact with the reality of Rwanda. One thing is that whatever you do really needs to be a once-off: it is very difficult to set up an ongoing project and then arrange for it to continue when you leave. Second, Rwanda is INCREDIBLY bureaucratic - if you want to set up an actual organisation the obstacles are immense (and expensive).

Thirdly, there are some needs that are actually being reasonably well met by either the government or various ONGs (as I have now learned to call NGOs). There is a raft of provisions for genocide orphans (though tough luck if you are an orphans for any other reason). The whole HIV/AIDS area is - if anything - over resourced or, to be more accurate, overstaffed. there are actually HUNDREDS of separate (and mostly uncoordinated) HIV/AIDS projects going on here, most of them concentrated in the same areas, leaving other areas neglected. You can buy people cows if you want (hi Horst) and there are actually professional cow-buyers who will do it for a fee which is a lot less than they will rip a muzungu off for in the cattle market, but how many people actually have the land for a cow (Alfred: trust me: buy them a cow and they'll find it!). My friend Jane Keenan did organise this so that is one possibility (I think they are usually bought for widows with no means of support)).

Coming to Rwanda, obviously the genocide and its after-effects was uppermost in my mind. Today I finished reading Philip Gourevitch's book We Wish to Inform you that Tomorrow we Will Be Killed With Our Families which is possibly the best book I have read on Rwanda so far. One of the themes he talks about is the injustices - unavoidable injustices - that happen in times of crisis. I have been struck (as readers of my blog will know) at the number of innocent people who have ended up in prison while many guilty walk the streets free. For those of us who grew up with memories of Nicky Kelly, the Guilford and the Birmingham Six, cases like this really strike a chord (Alfred: he actually typed 'cord' originally - how embarrassing would THAT have been!!)

There are also aspects of Rwandan society that take a lot of getting used to. Everyone is AMAZED when I say I am not married and do not have any children, and I mean AMAZED. When you ask men if they are married, and they aren't, they immediately trot out a load of reasons why it hasn't happened yet, because they are really embarrassed if they are not. Family is all-important here and if you don't have it, you are completely bereft. Orphans are looked after by the extended family (or the state in the case of genocide orphans) but a single parent, an unmarried mother or women raped and made pregnant during the genocide lead very lonely and unsupported lives.

There is an amazing absence of art here, in all its forms. English is taught as grammar - the idea of creative writing is virtually foreign. There is a tradition of poetry and some writing from the 19th century but is barely exists today. Art and music are similarly neglected: there is only one Art Studio and Gallery in the whole country and these subjects are utterly neglected in the vast majority of schools.

So I would like your ideas on the following:

1. A while ago, a VSO volunteer, Marion Woolley and a Ugandan woman, Jasmine Rizik set up a Rwandan NGO called Tabara, an organisation dedicated to helping single parents in Rwanda (initially focussing on Kigali). The membership includes some single fathers (which is really amazing in a Rwandan context) and you can read more about their aims and objectives at this link: http://www.tabara.net/englishindex.html. You can also read an entertaining account of their first public meeting on Marion's blog at http://heathenblogging.blogspot.com/2008/09/tabara-public-meeting.html

2. Some of my regular blog readers will know the story of Déo Nuwayo, my regular moto driver. Before the genocide, he owned a taxi company and was a successful businessman. After the genocide he was denounced and put in prison for thirteen years. While he was in prison, everything he owned was taken. After thirteen years he came to trial and was immediately released - the courts said it was a case of mistaken identity (or malicious denunciation) and he was cleared of having taken any part whatsoever. When he was released, he received no compensation whatsoever and had lost his house, business, cars, his wife had died and he has four children to support.

Today he hires a motorbike each day for RWF5000 and tries to make enough to pay for that, pay for petrol and still earn enough to keep his family. His main hope is to be able to buy his own motorbike (which would cost RWF1.3m or about €2,000) but, at this rate it is going to take him a long time.

Sometimes calamity falls on someone from out of nowhere - maybe sometimes assistance can arrive the same way!!

(Alfred: needless to say, Ruairí has taken the precaution of talking to local police and others to verify that this story is actually true!)

youth. They hold creative writing competitions each year and the twenty winners (10 boys and 10 girls) are invited to the workshops held in Kibuye in Western Rwanda, on the shores of Lake Kivu. You can read more about the workshops and the organisation on http://www.vso.org.uk/kivu/ and also read some of the material on http://www.voicesfromrwanda.org/.

So those are my three ideas at the moment. What I am asking you (blog readers and email contacts, because I am sending this entry out by email also) is to tell me what you think of these ideas, and whether you would be interested in supporting any of them. If you are interested, I will be sending on details later about how exactly you can help, but I am just looking for feedback at the moment (roheithir@gmail.com or use the Comment button here (if it works!)

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Electricity!

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.



Generator Saga - continued



Sunday, I got a lift home from Butare with Déo my moto driver. He had tried to buy petrol in Butare but all the stations were closed. When we got home I said I still had three-four litres in the jerrycan as not all the 16 litres would fit in the generator. He was very grateful!!



Three hours later he knoecked on my door. He had got about four hundred metres from my house when his motorbike seized up. He had to call a friend in Butare with a pick-up to drive out and collect him. It turns out the petrol was mixed or contamined with diesel (or maybe it just was diesel). He had to get the garage to strip down the engine and clean the tank and carburettor before he could get moving again.



Woops - couldn't help feeling a bit guilty. As they say, no good deed goes unpunished. I had to get Antoine out Monday to strip the generator, wash out the tank and carburettor with clean petrol and reassemble the generator. He found the spark-plug had either died of natural causes or had been affected by the diesel/petrol so he had to cycle into Butare the next day and get one. That was today. So this afternoon, when I got home from work, I figured there was just about enough petrol left in the generator to boil a kettle. And so there was. I made a Cauliflower and Broccoli Cup-a-Soup (two packs) and a flask of coffee for tomorrow's breakfast - the generator died JUST as the kettle came to the boil! Boy, did that soup taste good!! But where the hell am I going to get petrol?



Of course there is also the question of the RWF16,000 I paid for 16 litres of something that turned out not to be petrol. I will need Enoch to come along as my faithful translator as I know they don't have any French. I wonder if it was actually diesel and they just misunderstood what I was asking for? In that case they might take it back and replace it with petrol - we'll see. #


Work is manic again. We finally got the English classes started today - sort of. Only eight of my 20 turned up and only 3 of Enoch's 22 so he couldn't even get started. I hope more come tomorrow because I am getting a bit fed up leaving my work in the Education Office every day and hiking over to the District Office for classes that either don't happen or so few turn up for it is virtually pointless.



On the good side, I got all the staff lists for the entire district finished and sent off and tomorrow I will start on the exam results that have just arrived. This will give me a better idea of which schools I should visit first once I fianlly begin inspections.



Sorry - rather boring and uneventful blog tonight - don't have a lot of energy either in the computer battery or in my brain! Will fill you in later on my weekend in Kigali, the family dinner and all that!! And my ideas for projects, musn't forget those!

Monday, January 26, 2009

Han and Mans' Farewell bash

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.

As I said before, saying goodbye to friends (especially when you haven't known them for long enough!) is hard, but we had a great night out in Sole Luna, especially because many returned and former VSOs turned up. Here are a few pictures (maybe there is an Internet café in Addis Ababa (?Abbaba? looks wrong both ways) that Hans and Man (as I usually end up calling them) can access! Lots of love from all of us here - look forward to seeing you sometime!






Suzanne, Han and Chris





Steve, Sonya and Tina (and I'm not sure who has her back to me)




At least Epi has noticed what I am doing!



Mans, Bruce, Andrea (visiting from VSO Canada) and Charlotte (my Education Programme Manager)





Joe, Berthe, George and Chris (again - always stealing the limelight)



What is Cathryn Devine laughing at?



I've rarely seen a group of four people in a photo doing such completely different things (Alfred: note how Charlotte has dropped a gecko down the back of Mike's shirt and is trying her best to look innocent)



Bruce, Mans and Han (and another person I cannot identify from behind)




Nidhi, Jane, Thom, Amy and Heloise - the only people who didn't enjoy themselves.



Nidhi, Jane, Thom, Amy and Heloise - once they had been told exactly what would happen to them if they diodn't bloody well cheer up!!




George, Suzanne and Han

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Toothpaste

I bought a tube of Chinese toothpaste recently - aloe vera flavour, very strange taste but not as strange as what it says on the pack. The front cover reads as follows:

Aloe Manifoldfunctiontoothpaste
Use whiteness & lacunar is particle
Whiteness teeth efficiency is double the ecumenic toothpaste
Mouth nurse savant
Eliminate inflammation, acesodyne, hemostasia, eliminate buccal peculiar smell

But the back is even better (leaving out what was already on the front)!

delightfully fresh and fragrant pattern
The active things Increase thirty per cent:
  • Abundant buddles
  • More dosage
  • More clean
Lacunar is white particles: Lacunar is particles are able to clean teeth effectively, go deep into the teeth edge, clean tartar, adsorb the odour of the teeth, made your mouth surrounding clean.

Cardinal component: Natural aloe juice, polypeptide aperture guilder pure shot Leaven, two burning gui, natural aromatizer, surfactant etc.

Guangzhou City beautiful and bright day use chemical engineering company limited
Address: Guangzhou City stone wall industrial area Co-operative norm GB8372-2001 protect guilder term: Two year

Think I need to get some Colgate!

Monday 19th to Saturday 24rd January: Days One Hundred and Thirty Five to One Hundred and Forty in Rwanda

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.

PROJECTS
One of the things I had in mind when I came out here was to look around for a couple of useful things I might do to help while I was here - full details in the next blog and I will also be emailing all my friends and family with details - so watch this space!

WORK
Finally, finally – a week of really busy work in the office. It has mostly been statistics but at least now I know this is stuff that is actually needed and will be useful, as well as teaching me a lot about the various primary schools in my district. The chaos that started last week has continued this week. All day Monday was taken up with imihigo: this is the official signing of the District’s performance contract for January-June 2009 and is an all-day affair. I was going to give it a miss as it would go on forever and all be in Kinyarwandan but I got the feeling it was quite a big deal and decided I had better turn up. Just as well I did as I was actually mentioned as part of the proceedings (part of the drive to learn English) and it would have been v. embarrassing if I hadn’t been there!! I met two Norwegian Red Cross volunteers (Kristen and Camilla) who also attended as their boss was giving a presentation. Apparently they have been living in Butare since September but I never ran into them! Then I ran into them in the supermarket on Friday and we also ended up on the same bus to Kigali!

Other than that there isn’t much to say about work, apart from the English classes (Alfred: Oh no you don’t! You promised I could tell that story!). My otherwise mild-mannered and calm Director of Education almost had to be physically restrained from killing the chargé on Friday when we discovered he had screwed up a piece of work we had been preparing for the last week-and-a-half (Alfred: those of you not conversant with Excel may prefer to skip to the next paragraph!). Children here are allocated to secondary schools by the central department of education, often to the other side of the country (virtually all secondary students are boarders) but they can appeal to be sent to a different school. So we had amassed a file of about 190 such students and their details and I had tidied it up for them, sorting the students by the school they wanted to be transferred to. Anyway, Alexis (the chargé), as best I can figure out, decided he wanted the list in alphabetical order by student, but only sorted the students’ name column and left the rest of the data as it was. He then saved the file over the backup file and turned off the computer. We only found out the next day what had happened and that’s when Francois lost it. I sat in the corner working on my statistics and listening to the Dolly Parton album they were insisting on playing (Alfred: Niamh, if you are reading this – remember Our Lady of Lourdes Hospital??)

ENGLISH CLASSES
Alfred: Gather round my children while I recount to you the ongoing saga of Gisagara’s district’s attempts to teach its workers English. You may recall our erstwhile hero’s earlier attempts to organise English classes before Christmas, his expedition to Kigali to find textbooks (aided by the White Lords of the British Council) and his subsequent search for the Magic Photocopier. Well, this week saw another twist in the tale. Tuesday was imihigo day so no joy there. He turned up on Wednesday and was told there was a meeting of the co-operative committee so there couldn’t be a class (apparently all the workers are in the co-operative and get to divvy up a load of cows at the end of each year). So Thursday was to be the day. Having slaved away over a hot laptop all morning, our hero dashed home for a spot of lunch (peanut butter and bread and plum juice – yeah, I know, McDonald’s it ain’t) and then turned up, eager and willing, at the District Office, accompanied by his faithful squire Enoch.

On arrival they were met by the all-powerful Eugene, Executive Secretary of the District who said he had personally informed all workers to be there that day on the dot of 1530 for their placement test. ‘At last’ cried Ruairí (to himself), ’our labours can commence’. Installing themselves in the majestic meeting hall, Ruairí and Enoch awaited their adversaries ... I mean students.

The fated hour of 1530 came ... and went. At 1545 the all-powerful Eugene entered and realised he was the only person who had turned up. Dismayed and crestfallen, he and our two heroes (a stature that Enoch has surely earned at this stage) wondered what to do. The quest for the learning of English was a noble one but while the spirit might be willing, the flesh was weaker than a cup of tea in a 1950s rural Irish convent. So they hatched a cunning plan. What if the workers could be tricked into learning English? Eugene revealed that every Monday there was an assembly of all workers, for the purpose of planning the week ahead. What if Ruairí were to suddenly appear, English tests in hand, at the meeting and force all and sundry to complete it then and there??

A test at 0700 on a Monday morning? Could such a thing be countenanced? Bloody right it could, and will!! Watch this space to see what happens!



OBAMA’S INAUGURATION
After work Tuesday I headed into Butare to meet Jane and watch the inauguration ceremony. We went to the Faucon and there was a HUGE crowd, about one hundred and twenty people packed into the bar. It was a gerat occasion, though the coverage was from France24 so they voiced-over everything in French, including Obama’s sppech. By the way, does anyone know why Jimmy Carter wasn’t there? Saw Clinton and Bush senior all right (Bush senior looking like a Protestant archbishop with all that purple stuff shoved into his coat) but no peanut farmer-turned-President. Maybe he is still at Harare Airport trying to get in and sort out Mugabe.

MUSIC AT WORK
This is going to be the undoing of me. I can cope with all the other things Rwanda is throwing at me – rain and mud, an extremely limited cuisine (I think herbs and spices are against their religious beliefs), inefficiency, constant requests for money, sponsorship and whatever, insane moto and bus drivers, body odour, bedbugs, Kinyarwandan grammar (Alfred: ‘cope’ with it? You haven’t even tried learning it yet!), baton-wielding policemen (see details later), complete changing of the education system on an almost daily basis (or so it seems), computer viruses, eternal speeches, those really wierd shoes the men sometimes wear, the fact that most people support Arsenal, always being called a muzungu and being stared at – all water off a duck’s back.

But the music. The first problem is that they like to play the same track over and over and over and over and over again. My chargé Alexis – you MUST remember him – always plays music in the office. Loudly. Poorly chosen. And his favourite is to put one track on repeat for up to three hours at a time. No kidding. Three hours. He played one Dolly Parton track from around nine until I fled home for lunch. The terrifying thing is – you begin to wonder if you are staring to enjoy it. He has a particular fondness for religious-based country-and-western tunes of the most banal type. And nothing as entertaining as ‘I don’t care if it rains or freezes/Long as I got my plastic Jesus/Sitting on the dashboard of my car’ or ‘Drop-kick me, Jesus, through the goalposts of life’.

That brings me to problem number two: here’s a clue. Do you recognise the following lyrics?
When I was young/I never needed anyone
Near, far, wherever you are
You were my strength when I was weak/You were my voice when I couldn’t speak
It’s all coming back, it’s all coming back to me now.

Yes – Céline bloody Dion! Morning and night, on buses, in restaurants, ringtones, discos, hotels, again and again and again and AGAIN! I have occasionally found myself humming one of her hits and realised the insidious way she is creeping into my brain. This is not going to end well.

FOOTBALL MATCH
Today (Saturday) I went to my first football match in Rwanda. It was Rwanda v. Ghana in the African under-20 championships, the first major football tournament hosted by Rwanda. Rwanda had beaten Mali 2-1 and drawn 1-1 with Cameroon: they needed to beat Ghana to be sure of going through. A draw or even a loss might be enough if Cameroon failed to beat Mali. Mike Silvey, our country director had organised tickets for about 20 of us and we all met at the ground at 1515 (kickoff at 1530).

Getting in was chaotic – the entrances for the terraces were absolutely packed. The police were doing incredibly methodical body searches of all spectators and, with only two stewards on duty at our entrance, a massive queue built up. As the game started, the crowd got frustrated and began pushing and arguing – every time this happened the police would stop their searches and let no one in. By now I had got fairly near the top but the crush from behind was getting quite scary. Then someone in the crowd at the front made some comment to one of the police who slapped him really hard across the face and pushed him down the stairs into the crowd. When another person (pushed by the crowd behind him) bumped into the other policeman, the two of them just waded into the crowd with their batons. The two guys on either side of me got whacked on the head – either he missed me or decided that clubbing a muzungu was unlikely to be a career-enhancing activity (Alfred: probably the latter – he seemed to hit pretty much everything else he aimed at).

Eventually things settled down and they recommenced the body searches. And they were thorough! The last time I remember being touched like that was when I went for my medical exam for joining the pension scheme 25 years ago (Alfred: Ah yes, a rare opportunity to use the verb ‘palpated’). I mean, what kind of weaponry did he think I was hiding down there? (Alfred: nothing your average Rwandan would be scared of, I’m sure!). When I got in and found the rest of the gang, we actually had a great time. The standard wasn’t great but they were only juniors, after all. 0-0 at half time but Ghana stepped up a gear in the second half and ended 2-0 winenrs. And Cameroon beat Mali so Rwanda are out.

Another interesting thing. President Kagame was at the match and every time his picture came up on the big screen there was huge cheering and applause. I couldn’t help thinking that if Gordon Brown or Brian Cowen were in the same situation, I doubt the reaction would have been the same!

LAUNDRY
For some reason, I am actually enjoying washing all my laundry by hand. I think it’s the challenge of seeing how much laundry you can wash succesfully in as little water as possible. And also the continuing look of incredulity on my guard’s face when he sees me doing it!

ÁBHAR FAOI RÚN!!
Ceann de na rudaí is fearr a tharla dom ó tháinig mé anseo ná gur chuir mé aithne ar Enoch, múinteoir ó Uganda atá ag múineadh Béárla sa mheánscoil áitiúil le deich mbliana anuas. Téimid amach ag ól uair nó dhó gach seachtain, buaileann sé timpeall chun leabhair a thógáil ar iasacht uaim agus, toisc go bhfuil sé sa cheantar le fada, cabhraíonn sé liom leis an iliomad fadhbanna a thagann i mo threo ó am go ham.

Agus, toisc nach Rwandach é, is féidir liom ceisteanna a chur air nach mbeinn ar mo shuaimhneas a chur ar Rwandach, go háirithe faoin gcinedhíothú i 1994. An oíche dheireananch a bhíomar ag caint, d’iarr mé air arís faoi mo thiománaí Deo Gratias a chaith 13 bliana i bpríosún ó 1994 go dtí 2007 – tá sé i m’aigne iarracht éigin a dhéanamh cabhrú leis a shaol a chur ar ais le chéile arís tar éis an méid a tharla dó ach theastaigh uaim a chinntiú – chun na fírinne a rá – nach raibh sé páirteach in aon bhealach sa mhéid a tharla. Ní amháin gur chinntigh Enoch dom go raibh Deo neamhchiontach go hiomlán, d’inis sé roinnt scéálta eile dom. Dar leis, tá na cúirteanna traidisiúnta (gacaca a thugtar orthu) truaillithe go hiomlán ag breabanna agus caimiléireacht de chuile shórt. Tugtar breabanna do na giústis le cinntiú go gcuirtear daoine áirithe i bpríosún, íocann daoine eile le go ligtear saor iad go luath nó nach dtéann siad ann ar chor ar bith. Agus muid ag ól ansin, dhírigh sé a mhéar ar bheirt a bhí ag siúl thar an ngeata. Dúirt sé go raibh a fhos ag cách go ndearna an bheirt sin sléacht sa cheantar i rith an chinedhíothaithe ach, toisc iad a bheith saibhir agus cairde acu sa chóras polaitíochta áitiúil, níor gabhadh riamh iad.

Scéal eile ná rud a tharla i scoil aitiúil. Má chuirtear i do leith go raibh tú bainteach leis an gcinedhíothú, coinnítear i bpríosún thú go dtí gur féidir an cás a iniúchadh. Bhí an príomhoide i scoil áitiúil ag éiri as a phost ag deireadh na bliana. Chuir múinteoir amháin sa scoil i leith múinteora eile gur ghlac sé páirt gníomhach sa chinedhíothú. Thóg sé dhá bhliain an cás a fhiosrú agus, faoin am a scaoileadh saor an fear (a bhí iomlán neamhchiontach) bhí post an phríomhoide faighte ag an bhfear eile fad a bhí a iomaitheori sa phríosún.

TRANSLATING AS GAEILGE
What exactly is the Irish for ‘uncontended high bandwidth services’, or ‘highly resilient wireless radio transmission network’? Answers on a postcard please to ......

HAN AND MANS FAREWELL PARTY
One of the best things here – probably the best, actually – is making fantastic new friends. And, in the nature of volunteering, every now and again you have to say goodbye to them as they head back to their homes, as you yourself will one day do. On Friday night a huge crowd of volunteers gathered in La Sole Luna restaurant for Han and Mans’ farewell dinner. We had an absolutely fantastic night, a fitting send-off for two people who did so much excellent work here. Mans spent ages showing me his work and gave me a copy of everything he had done over the last two years (550MB worth); they invited me and many others who were here for Christmas to their house and have been friends, helpers and supporters of so many of his here. They will be sorely missed though I do look forward to visiting them in Utrecht when I get the chance (pictures will be posted on the next blog – forgot to bring a USB cable with me to Kigali!)

GENERATOR SAGA
Oh dear! I finally managed to track down the shop that sells petrol in the village as my generator had run dry. Off I went with my jerrycan, and Enoch in tow as well. They charged RWF1000 per litre which wasn’t too bad. The price at the pumps is RWF768 and it has to be lugged all the way out to the village (and a considerable portion got spilled on the floor while they were trying to measure it out). My guard miraculously appeared just as we had finished so he got to carry the full jerrycan back to the house (16 litres of petrol weighs a lot).

So, back home, filled up the generator amd decided I was going to have a double helping of Cauliflower and Broccoli Cup-a-Soup! I could actually taste the creaminess, the slight crunch of the broccoli (don’t know how they manage it) but, most of all, eating something HOT in my own house. The generator wouldn’t start. Poor Alexandre worked himself into a complete lather pulling the starter cord – eventually I had to actually order him to stop for fear he would either injure himself or, to be frank my greater worry, break the starter cord. So far, I have managed to boil three kettles and cook one stir-fry: not a great track record (Alfred: well, I don’t want to sound, like, bitchy or whatever, but you do have a kerosene stove, don’t you? All the other volunteers seem to have figured out how to use it – you tried twice and then gave up! Get a grip and stop whining!)

POLICE!!!
Yeah! On Wednesday morning, my police clearance arrived in Butare post office. All I had to do, I figured, was bring it up to Kigali Friday, hand it in to the Program Office and wait for my visa and work permits to arrive.

On Thursday the police called to my door. Oh-oh, I thought, here comes trouble. They gave me an Alien’s Registration document which all non-Rwandans are being required to fill out – the problem is they say they absolutely have to have it back by next Monday and there is no way my stuff can be processed that quickly! Going to have to stall them somehow – that could be interesting!

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Alfred lays down the law

OK - Alfred has had a serious chat with me. Day-by-day accounts are banned from now on because they are, according to him ... BORING!!!!!!!!!! I am to concentrate on the 'colour' material, interesting insights, anecdotes, quips, rude t-shirt slogans, funny stuff, entertain the masses and so on. And all mention of educational statistics is banned (which is what I have been working on for the last two days!). If not, he has threatened to take over the blog himself (a move that might be welcomed by some of the regular readers).

This will require a little thought.

Oh - and congratulations to Tiga and Andy: a match made in heaven!!!

Monday, January 19, 2009

Thursday 8th to Sunday 18th January: Days One Hundred and Twenty-Four to One Hundred and Thirty-Four in Rwanda

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.

OK – edited highlights only, it’s been a long time. And if you want to see some Christmas photos, go to my Facebook page: the uploader here takes FOREVER with photos!!

THURSDAY TO SUNDAY

Came back down home on Thursday and zoomed out to the District as fast as I could. Francois had said the Adult Literacy Report absolutely had to be finished and submitted by Friday. And I believed him, hence the rush. There were a few sets there and I did them in about ten minutes . However, no-one knew where the rest of the statistics were – somewhere in the main education office and Francois said I would have to do them tomorrow. When I arrived Friday Francois was away (as I knew) but Alexis, in a remarkable imitation of Bart Simpson in his early years, told me
a) he didn’t know where the statistics were
b) the place they were was locked and he didn’t know where the key was
c) the statistics were incomplete because quite a few sectors had not yet returned them.

I did find out that the generator in the education office had been fixed so I will be back in my proper office (with part-time use of a desk) as of Monday. But Friday was a complete washout. I invented things to do (am halfway through Excel for Dummies at the moment) and went home for lunch. And then I said ‘Sod it’ and stayed at home. I really didn’t see the point of coming back, so I had a nap (Alfred: a nap? What is happening to this guy – when’s the last time anyone remembers Ruairí taking a nap?) and that was that. I don’t know what guardian angel was looking out for me but it transpired that everyone was actually given a half-day that afternoon out of the blue: if I had dragged myself back to the office, to find no-one there at all, ........ eh-eh-eh-eh-eh, as they say here in Rwanda.

Fairly uneventful weekend: did a pile of laundry on Saturday (not before time) but hanging it out was an interesting affair. As I mentioned before, the local market has relocated to around my house, Wednesdays and Saturdays. This means several hundred people, mostly hanging aroiund and not doing anything much. The sight of a male muzungu hanging out laundry attracted an enormous crowd, which I tried to pretend wasn’t there(!). As I hung up each item, an excited burst of conversation would ensue – whether discussing the way I was hanging it, what the garment was used for (my boxer shorts and nightshirt both sparked off a higher than usual decibel level; the Chelsea shirt passed unobserved). For some reason, they found the socks particularly funny, no idea why.

One night (Friday I think) I did head out to my local – on my own as Enoch is still in Kigali on his way back from Kampala. As often happens a guy walked up to my table and asked if he could join me and, as usual, I said yes. His name was Joseph and it turned out I had met him that morning in the District Office. He owns the bar I usually drink in and Vestine, the barmaid, is his niece!! We had a long and very interesting chat. He has what appears to me to be a rather difficult job. He co-ordinates aid for genocide victims in the district – orphans, people who had limbs hacked off and so on. However, the people must be able to prove they suffered their losses directly from the genocide: if you are an orphan because your parents died in an accident or from malaria, tough luck. There are officials in each sector who deal with this and he gets called in to sort out the problem cases. Not pleasant, as he said himself, but that’s the way the system works. Anyway, he refused to let me pay for anything (we had eaten as well), though he did quietly establish I did understand that this was only for this one night and not for free booze and food for the remainder of my stay!!

MONDAY and TUESDAY
Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha. What a day! The first day of the new school year and all hell broke loose. I sat in the Education office (now up and running again now that the generator is fixed) and tried to finish the adult illiteracy statistics (Alexis was right: some sectors still haven’t returned them). Meanwhile an avalanche of people began to pour in the door and clog up the corridor as the implications of the new changes in the education system either became clear or were completely incomprehensible (depending on which particular changes you are talking about). Eleven principals turned up, either confused or – having figured out what was happening – explaining that the proposed changes simply could not work in their school. There were a host of other teachers – mostly French teachers I think – who wanted to know if they still had jobs or not, or if they were being moved to other schools or what? There were a load of parents whose children had been allocated to a particular secondary school and wanted them changed to another one (Alfred: this was all in Kinyarwandan – there is a certain degree of speculation involved in this description as Ruairí’s Kinyarwandan could most kindly be described as rudimentary, more accurately as virtually non-existent).

Alexis didn’t seem to figure much in all of this, apart from joining in the occasional discussion but Francois was really impressive. Despite the magnitude (woops, almost said ‘enormity’) of the problems facing him, he stayed calm, cool, reasoned and cheerful. One way or another – as far as I could tell – everyone left that office at least a little happier than they had arrived, which was quite an achievement. I know the guy drives me mad in other ways (he now owes me RWF 5000 for a mouse I bought him in Kigali – I wonder if I am ever going to see that!) but he can be really impressive at other times.

Tuesday followed much the same pattern. I filled in the time reading through the draft of the Education Management Manual that Charlotte sent me – they seem to have been working quite hard up there in my absence! Enoch was supposed to come and chat to me about English classes but never turned up at the office – Francois had asked me to give him a report on any discussions we might have oj the topic (a certain amount of tension going on there, as you will see). Later that evening Enoch and Kenneth called round to see me: I had brought some books back from the VSO Resource Room and Enoch immediately purloined Chinua Achebe’s Things Fall Apart, a book he had last read at school. Enoch was also most apologetic as the bottle of waragi he was bringing me back from Kampala got confiscated at the border. We talked about the classes – Enoch’s problem is that he hasn’t yet been paid for the classes he already gave (and they said they are only giving him RWF2000 per class instead of the RWF3000 originally offered) and so far has not seen a contract for the new classes and has no intention of starting unless such a contract is provided.

Then we went for beers and a long chat: Kenneth has more-or-less finished his work here in Gisagara and is being recalled to Kigali on the 23rd, which is where the Chinese-owned engineering company is based. Another nice pleasant evening and then I found out Enoch had sneaked off and paid for everything. I’m sure I’ll get to pay next time but this is getting not just friendly but a bit wierd to be honest!!

WEDNESDAY

Long chats about English classes with Francois and with Eugene the Executive Secretary of the District. I also spent a few hours carefully reading through the textbooks themselves – there is going to have to be a lot of photocopying!! Also, I need to design a test to sort people into classes again, as over half never did any sort of assessment at all. Got that done by lunch, then headed home, dropped my stuff and headed into Butare and caught the bus to Kigali. This time we are staying in St Paul’s, a religious-run guesthouse right in the centre. It’s nice but, despite my having sent two emails to Jean-Claude regarding accommodation, they had no record of any booking for me at all, but were able to find me a room! Wandering around town I ran into an Irish couple, Simon and Greer, who have both been wandering around the world and Africa respectively for almost a year now (Simon recognised my Shamrock Rovers shirt) – it’s the first time I have run into anyone Irish here who wasn’t actually working for VSO or a similar organisation. We were supposed to go and watch Wigan-Man U later but they got sidetracked by a table quiz they were winning – probably just as well, tomorrow is a busy day!

THURSDAY and FRIDAY
The conference itself was really good, if somewhat tiring. The only thing that marred it was an enormous amount of confusion over accommodation with mixed messages being given to volunteers left right and centre. Some got so fed up they just booked themselves in elsewhere and paid for it out of their own pockets! But the actual conference was good – highlights were a presentation on VSO’s history in Rwanda, a complete outline of the PHARE (antiHIV/AIDS) project and its possible future, feedback from Ruth and Charlotte’s visit to Cameroon and a very interesting presentation by Richard Arden of DfID on the current changes in the Rwandan Education system. This last was particularly good: Richard has had enormous experience working in Africa (having started with VSO himself) and he said that, despite the frustration and craziness of much of what the Rwandans were doing at the moment, it was still far preferable to what tended to happen in most African countries where any change at all took forever. Here it was go for broke and sort out the problems afterwards!!

Thursday night I met up with Steve MacFadden and got to see his really nice new house (his beard has really come on nicely too!). We went for a rather indifferent Chinese meal in a place called Shanghai (my Goat in Garlic Sauce didn’t taste of garlic at all though the diced cucumber did give an interesting texture; the Sweet-and-Sour Pork was a sludgy sweetish pink sauce) but had a really good chat. Friday night I ended up in a long chat with Mike Tennant (Education Management Advisor like me) and George Pinto (working as a science teacher in a Teacher Training College in the North) – that’s one of the great things about these kinds of conferences, you get a chance to talk to people you don’t ordinarily have time to see!). I also - finally – got to the Chinese supermarket for some household supplies: a blanket, flask, knives, a pair of wellies, bits and bobs. All I need is some petrol and I can start making coffee again!!

But – way and away the most important of all – Tina Hewing arrived back!! She is looking great and – even better – (not really) brought me stuff!! A supply of deoderant (I had asked her to do this so no smart comments please), chocolate flavoured tea (Alfred: WHAT! Pretty sure you didn’t ask for that) which Tina assures me is gorgeous, a Chelsea alarm-clock and a set of Chelsea Top Trumps (card game – I was awesome at Military Aircraft Top Trumps at Christmas!!!).

SATURDAY and SUNDAY
Best football experience so far! I was watching Chelsea-Stoke in the Faucon while a much bigger crowd watched Bolton – Man U out the back. Losing 0-1 to Stoke was bad enough, then Man U (whose match had kicked off earlier) scored in the 89th minute. All the Man U supporters piled in to gloat at us, though we had just snatched an equaliser. Then Lampard scored in the 94th minute and all us Chelsea supporters went crazy (Alfred: right – overjoyed at beating Stoke City at Stamford Bridge, a collection of discarded pottery shards disguised in red-and-white shirts and pretending to be a football team; how have the mighty fallen!) – giant group hug in the middle of the bar!! Also met Cathryn Devine from Strabane who is back from home – hadn’t seen her in a long time!

Back to Gisagara on Sunday morning, did a load of laundry ... and then promptly fell asleep for the rest of the day!! Really wierd – not feeling sick or anything, just really sleepy. Slept from 1200 to 1800, got up to eat something and then straight back to bed again for the entire night. No idea what that’s all about!

(Alfred: is that it? Over a week of life in Rwanda and the most interesting thing you can come up with is that Steve’s beard is coming on nicely??? What about the human interest? Wry observations? Even a funny t-shirt or two?)

Well, I take Alfred’s point: maybe I am just getting so used to things here that things just don’t jump out and surprise me the way they used to at first. There are still the surprises – a t-shirt saying ‘Suck my D***’ (no asterixes on the original) being worn by a young man carrying a Bible, even more surprisingly was a ‘Who Shot J.R.?’ t-shirt in immaculate condition – where had that been lying all these years? I have been having more interesting conversations with Déo, my moto driver and there will be an update on that in my next blog update. My guard, Alexandre, continues to add a new English phrase to his vocabulary each day. And English classes are supposed to start this week (though Irene, the district solicitor who has been making very blatant approaches to me the last few times we have met, having established that she and I are two of the few unmarried people in the office) just told me that today is bad and tomorrow is worse as there is a meeting all day to discuss the new work performance contracts that have just arrived. Maybe Wednesday we can get started.

(Alfred: NOT THE POINT! You gotta make this stuff more interesting or people won’t bother themselves ploughing through it all! Don’t worry folks – I’ll make sure it’s better next time, even if I have to write it myself!)

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Hi all!

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.

Sorry - it's been a while. Big two-day Education Conference in Kigali and now I am heading back to Gisagara. Hope to do a big update over the weekend. As Alfred said the frequency and size of my blog entries is in inverse proportion to my workrate, so it's a good sign!!!

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Message from Alfred

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.


Alfred: I know there hasn't been a word from him in almsot a week but that's GOOD news - it means he's finally busy (or at least busy-ish). He's off to Kigali today for a two day meeting Thursday and Friday and he is not taking his computer, so it'll be Saturday at the latest before you hear anything - patience!! You learn a lot about patience in Rwanda, trust me! Meanwhile here are a few pics we found while trawling around on the Internet and Facebook!




This was a meal we went out for towards the end of the English course in Butare. from left to right are - Beatrice, me, Sarah, Graham, Anthony, Diane, Shamira, Soraya and Amy. Graham and Sarah are the British Council representatives in Rwanda, Diane works for MINEDUC and the rest of us are the trainers.



Another flashback to election night!



Jane Keenan and me at the Chinese restaurant in Butare (not to be confused with the Chineese Restaurant, which is at the other end of town altogether!).








Thursday, January 8, 2009

Sunday 4th to Thursday 8th January: Days One Hundred and Twenty to One Hundred and Twenty Four in Rwanda.

Please note that VSO is in no way connected with or responsible for the content, comments and observations in this blog: these are solely my own in a personal capacity.


SUNDAY to THURSDAY
Off to Kigali and I spent most of the next four days working in VSO on the manual we are trying to develop for Education management Volunteers, so I am not going to do a day-by-day for fear of boring you all (Alfred: BORING? Heaven forefend! What could be more interesting for the general reader than developing the role of PTAs in Rwandan education, statistical analysis of repeat and drop-out rates, budgetary training, developing inspection and assessment forms, zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz............). It was nice to be working with Mans and Joe and Sonya but Bruce only arrives Thursday which is when I am heading back and I’m not sure when Alain is arriving.The has to be ready for the Education Conference on the 15th-16th January so it’s going to be a bit of a stretch. I said I could come back up Monday if really necessary but I really would prefer to stay in Gisagara for the beginning of the school term.

KIGALI HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER STORIES
Alfred: Sorry, I INSIST on going first. What has got to be the funniest thing I’ve seen since I got here is the emergency hearse, for want of a better word. We were standing at the crossroads near Chez Lando when we heard a really loud siren coming towards us. Cars pulled over and everyone stared, expecting an ambulance or police car. What appeared was a hearse, complete with coffin and wreaths but with ambulance-type red flashing lights on top as it slowly made its way through the traffic. It sailed along serenely, though it certainly could have gone faster. The complete incongruity ... hmmm, not sure if it is comong across. Maybe I should have let Ruairí write this one: he would have talked about cultural concepts of and attitudes towards death, the clash of technology and tradition – OK, just as well it was me. then!)

PACKAGES!
Got back to Butare on Thursday with a really heavy backpack and thought I would check my post. THREE PACKAGES with LOADS of really great stuff – thanks so much to Jennifer, Anne-Marie and my sister Máirín. I have enough chocolate and cup-a-soup to open a shop, reading material, a natty new hat (Alfred: Hi Anne-Marie! Intermediate Certificate class of 1984, wasn’t it? Whatever happened to Emma Dick, Tamara Caruth, Amelia Madden and the rest of them, eh? And congratulations on the hat you sent – the EXACT shade of Rwandan dust, perfect head wear for here. Luck or intensive research .....?), battery charger, spice mixes, wheeeeeeee!!! Mind you, this meant that I had to leave my mother’s package in Jane’s for the moment and somehow fit all the stuff into my already-full backpack and shop for food in Matar. So I ended up going out to Gisagara on the back of Deo’s moto with an extremely heavy backpack and a stuffed shopping bag hanging from my left hand. Quite tricky going up the steep hills with the backpack dragging you back and only one hand to hold on with!! But thanks again everyone, it is really so cool when people remember you (Alfred: and whoever sent the Lindt Orange Intense – think it was Máirín – well done, though it’s a bugger getting the stains out of my fur!).

REPUBLIKA AND AFTER
I met up with Ivana as well while I was in Kigali – she and Joe Walk and I met up for dinner in Republika where I treated myself to a steak and red wine (Alfred: they do good steaks there but don’t order the Steak Republika: they serve it piled with beans and peas which kind of steam the already-cooked steak and give it a rather stewed texture). Afterwards, Ivana hopped on a moto and Joe and I headed off towards what we thought might be the main road, keeping an eye out for motos as we went. No sign of either main road or motos. Then a car with a man and a woman in it slowed by us and Joe had an inspirational idea – what if this guy would give us a lift, either free or for a reasonable fee!!! He was willing to drop us where we wanted for RWF5000 which was less than the regular taxi fare, so in we got.

OK – maybe it wasn’t such a good idea (Alfred – no, really?) The guy was COMPLETELY pissed, and I mean completely. Mind you this meant that most of the time he drove at about 15kph, but not necessarily on the proper side of the road (Alfred: say ‘the right side’ – it works both ways here in Rwanda!). Then he decided that he didn’t want to drop us home. We wanted to show the distinguished visitors around Kigali, its sights and nightlife, dancing and all that crack. My French wasn’t really up to this so thank God Joe was there to, with the utmost politeness (Alfred: split infinitive alert!) decline for the moment, pleading jet lag and general tiredness. Then he suddenly accelerated, making me think he was annoyed at our refusal. Joe was moving around uneasily – I presumed he was looking for a seat belt (Alfred: Joe latter said he was looking for an ejector seat). However, we managed to get him to come to a halt where I was getting off, near Chez Lando and Joe rather wisely decided to get out with me and get a moto the rest of the way! Sticking to motos and taxis from now on (Alfred: yeah, like all the moto drivers at night are sober!).

BRITISH COUNCIL
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – it’s the only excuse for British Imperialism. One of my jobs while in Kigali was to get a set of the New Cutting Edge textbooks that I had used in Butare for use in teaching English in the district. So Jane Keenan and I headed off to the British Council office which is near the centre. I knew they didn’t actually sell the books in the office but somewhere nearby. When we got there, Rosemary greeted us (Graham and Sarah are still on holiday). She said the books were on sale in KIST (Kigali Institute of Science and Technology). I saw Jane’s face drop – this is miles away. Rosemary said she would show us where it was. She promptly summoned her driver, packed us into the car, drove us half-way across town, found the bookstore was locked and unattended but produced a key, got us the books, wrote out receipts for everything, locked up and drove us back into town where we could get the bus! Then when she heard where we were going, she said to stay in the car because the driver was collecting John Simpson (also British Council) and could then drop us to VSO on the way back (which is exactly what happened, and I got to see John again which was really nice). The driver dropped us at VSO just in time to avoid an absolutely torrential downpour! Yeah, British Council – where else do you get service like that!!!!

EDUCATION CHANGES
Speaking of meeting John Simpson – he is pretty permanently assigned to working with MINEDUC at the moment and I don’t envy the man his job. All the changes that have recently been announced in the education system were just a draft as of November 2008, with no decision to be taken in the immediate future. Now all hell is breaking loose. The changes are actually even more extensive than I realised before. For a start when I was reading the draft (Charlotte kindly printed me off a copy) I did notice that the total hours allocated to subjects added up to one hour more than there is per week. Today I find out that French at secondary level, which had initially been designated as compulsory but not examinable and had been reduced from six hours to two hours a week, has now – presumably because of the accounting error – been reduced to just one hour per week and is optional against Swahili and Agricultural Science (as in you do just one of the three)! Schools are full of French teachers – what are they going to do now?? They have also abolished French at primary level altogether – I thought I had misheard this the last time, but no, both the director and chargé confirmed this to me (Alfred: maybe they were referring to the use of French, rather than the subject, though that would be one hell of a surprise too). I am going to have to be gentle when I start my inspections – if ever there was a time when principals need support and encouragement, it’s now!

ALEXANDRE
My guard is turning out to be a bit of a treasure. I was a bit concerned about his not having French or English and not always being around when I got back from work so I couldn’t get at the generator (Alfred: not that again! Has he forgotten that HE said he would buy a new padlock in Butare with two keys and HE’S the one who keeps on forgetting to do it!!). Anyway, I arrived back today, came in the door and Alexandre greeted me with:’Welcome home, how are you?’, the first English words I have heard from him! He has been learning! I ran in to dump my stuff and get back to the office. All the laundry I had left on the line had been brought in (as I would have expected) but it had all been properly folded and he had found hangers for all the shirts and driven an extra long nail into the wall to hang them on.

I headed for the office and worked through the afternoon. A massive thunderstorm broke out around two and continued all afternoon. At three o’clock this guy (it was Sylvestre)(Alfred: this guy! It’s his office you are camping in, for goodness’ sake, show a bit of respect, not to mention recognition) came into the office with my umbrella. Alexandré had walked up to the District Office with my umbrella because he wouldn’t have known if I had a coat with me or not, presumably getting drowned going home in the meantime. Three cheers for Alexandre!!



DRIVING LICENCE
I collected my driving licence while I was in Kigali (Alfred: Oh, please, please, please, not this again! You have no bloody idea how often this meaningless fact has been casually dropped into the conversation the last few days. I mean, the test was rigged, he actually doesn’t know how to drive a bike properly, is unlikely to be getting one anyway and would positively definitely have a HEART ATTACK if someone turned around and offered him the use of a machine. But this hasn’t stopped him banging on about it, ‘accidentally’ dropping it out of his wallet when he is opening it and ...... oh no, I don’t believe it: he is actually uploading PHOTOS of it! Has the man no shame?) Well I did, so there. The plan is to go to France when I get back, or Belgium, as they recognise Rwandan licences and convert it into a French or Belgian one which can be converted into an Irish one. But – taking Alfred’s point – a few more lessons might be a good idea!





CATS
Was staying in Marion’s house for a few days with Sonya – nice to be around cats again. I didn’t have my camera with me so I didn’t get pictures of Isuheri and Sula (think that’s the right names) – two very striking and extra-ordinarily affectionate cats (Alfred: they’re spoiled that’s what they are! I haven't had that much attention the entire bloody time I’ve been in Rwanda!) You can get more details and pictures of both the cats and Marion’s extra-ordinary house on her website at http://www.heathenblogging.blogspot.com/

PETROL
The national fuel shortage continues and there appears to be a ban on buying petrol in jerrycans to prevent hoarding. This is a pain as my generator is dry - this is going to require some lateral thinking.

GUARDIAN WEEKLY
My first issue finally arrived today. When I subscribed they claimed they didn’t recognise the VSO code for the discount so it cost £100 for one year: now the first issue arrives today dated December 6th!! What gives guys??

Sunday, January 4, 2009

AFRICAN SNIPPETS

I've been collecting stories like these since I got here. Most are actually from Ugandan newspapers, which are a lot more interesting than Rwandan ones. Some of the stories are funny, some are just VERY different, some are horrific. Most, if not all, of my blog entries so far have been pretty positive, and rightly so. But there are other things that happen (just as at home, to be honest, if not quite in the same way) .............



THREE KILLED ON NEW YEAR’S IN RUKUNGIRI
THREE people were murdered on New Year’s day after a quarrel over a girl in Rukungiri district. District Police Commander Stanley Tibakanya said Dan Bututu accused Bernard Tukwasibwe of deterring his cousin from going out with him.

It is alleged that after the celebrations at midnight in Kayaga trading centre, Bwambara sub-county, Bututu bribed three people with waragi to lynch Tukwasibwe. The trio allegedly followed him to his house and lynched Tukwasibwe, before killing him.


Following Tukwasibwe’s death, relatives trailed the murderers. The suspects were found in a rice plantation in Kikarara village and immediately stabbed to death with spears and machetes.
The Police has identified the dead as Livingstone Mutatina and Dan Bututu. Another suspect Julius Tindiwensi was rescued by the Police from the mob in a critical condition and was rushed to Nyakibale Hospital.


Mob kills suspect at Police station
Monday, 15th December, 2008

By Luke Kagiri
A mob on Friday stormed Ssekanyonyi Police post in Mityana district and killed a suspect. The man was believed to have stolen a boda-boda motorcycle from Mityana town. Charles Kasule, the LC1 secretary for defence, said: “He drugged a cyclist, then stole his motorcycle. I took him to the Police but the crowd followed us. They stormed the post, dragged him out and burnt him to ashes.”

Kasule said the suspect had earlier on been interrogated and had identified himself as Hassan Ssemakula, a resident of Kiganda. “In his pockets, he had a knife and other tools.” The district officer in charge of criminal investigations, Angel Okello, condemned the act and warned the residents against mob justice. “It is still a fresh case to comment on but these cyclists must stop taking the law into their own hands,” Okello said. He said a policeman was injured when the mob attacked and threw stones at the Police post.

Guard loses bicycle trying to save meat
Friday, 2nd January, 2009

By Vision reporter
A security guard was last Friday thrown into anguish when he lost his bicycle trying to save his meat. Happily riding on Old Port Bell Road after securing a ‘Christmas delicacy’ for his family, a pedestrian snatched the kaveera containing the meat from the bicycle. The guard immediately jumped off the bicycle, abandoning it at the road, to pursue the thief.

A third party, suspected to have been the thief’s accomplice complicated matters for the guard by helping himself to the abandoned bicycle. He stealthily rode away as all the attention had been turned on the guard’s pursuit for his meat. After a long chase the thief dropped the kaveera. The guard picked it, only to return and find his bicycle gone.

Mother of four imprisoned for dumping baby in pit latrine
Sunday, 14th December, 2008

By Moses Nampala

A WOMAN who dropped her nine-day-old baby in a latrine has been sentenced to three years in prison. Fatuma Auro, a mother of four, said she desperately wanted a boy child.

She became disappointed when she delivered a girl, yet her co-wife, a mother of three, had two boys. Auro threw the infant, only named as Nyafwono, in a pit latrine on November 10 in Nagongera town council, Tororo district. On the fateful day, relatives say they saw Auro moving between her house and the latrine.

One of the children who visited the latrine, alerted people around the home that she heard a baby crying from the latrine. Auro was arrested after she could not say where her baby was. Residents removed the body from the latrine and buried it. The Tororo chief magistrate, Moses Anguwalia, passed the sentence against Auro.

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Alfred: I like this next one, mainly for the wonderful proverb in the last paragraph!
Yes, Police officers are very greedy
Sunday, 14th December, 2008

EDITOR—I would like to add value to Derek Kabenge’s observations in his letter “Greedy traffic cops!” I have interacted with several boda-boda riders inquiring why they flout traffic rules.

Strangely, it is safer for them that way! When a cop nabs them, their bikes are taken to the station and they are required to pay sh50,000 to get them back. It makes no difference that their papers are in order. These unscrupulous officers stop a truck, and force the drive to carry the bikes to the Police station at no cost. The traffic charges against such a driver are dropped!

When I suggested that such errant officers should be reported to their superiors, they just laughed with derisive scorn—a monkey cannot pass sentence against the forest! The superiors are part of the scandal! So to avoid the encumbering costs, the boda-boda men just jump lights to escape injustice. What a shame!

J. Amailuk amailukonline@gmail.com

Thinking about sex can make you sneeze
Wednesday, 31st December, 2008

Sneezing may give a lot more away than the fact that you have a cold - it could mean you are having lurid thoughts about sex. Researchers have found evidence that in certain people, sneezing can be triggered by sexual fantasy.

Dr Mahmood Bhutta, an ear, nose and throat specialist at the John Radcliffe Hospital in Oxford, launched the study after seeing a patient who suffered "uncontrollable" sneezing fits every time he had a sexual thought.

"We thought this unusual and performed a literature search of the topic," he wrote in the Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine.

Together with a colleague Dr Harold Maxwell, a retired consultant psychiatrist, Bhutta launched a study and found that 17 people of both sexes reported sneezing immediately they thought about sex, and three had the same experience after orgasm.

"Our findings do suggest that it is much more common than recognised," wrote Bhutta and Maxwell. “I think this reflex demonstrates evolutionary relics in the wiring of a part of the nervous system called the autonomic nervous system...the part beyond our control.”

Sneezing usually occurs in response to nasal irritation, triggering a reflex that expels air at speeds of around 150 kilometres an hour. The news could lead to raised eyebrows on the taxi next time a passenger sneezes after looking at you.


Ritual murders since last year
Monday, 24th November, 2008


June 6, 2007: Ismael Ssekajja, a nine-year-old pupil of Mahad Primary School in Kisekka sub-county, Masaka district, was beheaded and the body dumped in a swamp. The body parts were missing.

July 16, 2007: James Wanzaale, 12, of Nansyono village, Gadumire sub-county in Kaliro district, was allegedly beheaded by his uncle, Patrick Baligeya, in a bid to get wealth.

September 15, 2007: Joram Namanyira, 12, was killed by a guard, George Wadonya, who allegedly connived with the boy’s caretaker, Rose Nabwire, in Rubaga division, Kampala. The Police found the body in Saul Kaya’s home in what the Police called a ritual murder.

February1, 2008: 11-year-old Jimmy Turyagyenda was almost sold for sh3m to a witch-doctor by his father Jackson Nzaine in Katabi, Entebbe.

May 2, 2008: Hassan Ondoga of Naguru Kampala went missing and his body was found burnt at the Golf Course in Kololo. The Police suspected a ritual sacrifice.

May 27, 2008: Three traditional healers were arrested in Bwondha village in Malongo sub-county, Bugiri district, over possession of a human skull, hair and bones. The Police said they were involved in human sacrifice.

October 26, 2008: The body of seven-year-old Bwenge was found in a pit-latrine belonging to Grace Kansiime a week after he went missing. Kansiime was a sister-in-law of a traditional healer. The Police said the body had cuts, with the tongue, private parts and heart missing.

October 27, 2008: Joseph Kasirye, 12, was allegedly beheaded by Umar Kateregga, a witch-doctor in Masaka, with the help of his Tanzanian wife Mariam Nabukeera.

November 2, 2008: Assailants beheaded 73-year-old Sylvester Lwanga of Lwagurwe village in Kyanamukaka sub-county, Masaka district. The Police suspected ritual purposes.

November 19, 2008: 18-year-old Fiona Namutaaya of Kawempe, Kampala, was arrested over theft of a one-year-old baby, David Gwanga. The child was stolen from the mother’s house in Nsambya Kevina Zone, Makindye division, for sacrifice. The baby was recovered.

Camel meat now a delicacy in Kampala
Thursday, 1st January, 2009

By Agnes Kyotalengerire

CAMEL meat commonly refered to as “nyama ya ngamiya”is fast becoming a delicacy in Kampala. Dr. George Nasinyami a veterinary doctor and public health specialist says that camel meat is nutritious just like any other meat.

Abdi Fatah Ibrahim a Somali and a dealer in camel meat explains that fat from the camels hump contains medicinal values. “When melted and boiled, the fat is used to treat malaria, measles, ulcers, tuberclosis, breast cancer and diabetes All you have to do is to mix a desirable amount of fat in foodstuff” explains Fatah.

Currently, there are three popular camel meat restaurants in Kampala: Zaituni hotel, Raniadan hotel and As Al- Qudus hotel all in Kisenyi. “We prepare camel meat stew and it is served with pispas (chilli) soup”, explains Abdihakim Abdullahi a hotel supervisor at As-Al-Qudus hotel Kisenyi says that a plate of plain camel meat costs sh6000 (€3) while meat with niacron costs sh7700 (€4).

Procedure

• Cut the meat into small pieces and sun dry it for 1-2 hours • Without adding any spices, fry it using camel fat or vegetable cooking oil • Add salt to taste • Put aside to cool • Store in a clean dry container.


Recipe
When serving, scoop a desirable amount using a clean ladle to avoid contaminating the preserved meat. Warm it on slight heat and serve. Abdihakim advises that when preparing camel meat stew, one should put little water because the meat is very aquatic and produces a lot of water when steamed


Uganda must keep watch over her own albinos
Monday, 8th December, 2008

KAROORO OKURUT
A literary and socio-political analyst The image of a little girl holding a doll, probably thinking she was on an ice cream evening out with an uncle, only to be buried alive at the behest and for the benefit of a money-lusting tycoon, is one of the most powerful yet, painted in Uganda’s media lately.

It is also hands-down, one of the most depressing stories ever; one that has given many readers nightmares ever since. Personally, every time I close my eyes on the shores of slumberland, I wake up, heart pounding and tears knocking at the door. There is a predictable story line: a child is lured into accepting little gifts like sweets or biscuits and is then whisked away to a shrine where the witchdoctors kill and chop off body parts like genitals, tongue and heart, or is buried alive as was the case recently.

The deal is that the sacrifice will ensure blessings from the powers of evil to the tune of great riches – bestowed on the one who procured the grisly act. Police statistics show that last year alone, 230 children disappeared in the country. Of these at least 12 are confirmed to have been sacrificed. Given that reportage of such incidents is low, the number of actual cases must be much more than we are told.

Across the border in Tanzania, an even more grisly tale is being told: albinos both young and old, are being captured in broad daylight and whisked off to be killed by those pursuing quick wealth.

Tanzania has about 300,000 albinos out of a total population of 35 million, but they are dying by the hundreds. Witchdoctors and devil worshippers believe that the organs of these people are a potent remedy when mixed with certain concoctions because it is believed they can effect miracle cures or offer mystical powers. A combination of blood, bones, skin, sexual organs, limbs and hair taken from albinos is used to create a ‘magic potion’ sold for a minimum $2000. Even in death, the albinos can no longer rest in peace because their bodies are exhumed and mutilated.

Tanzania is enjoying a thriving cross-border trade with Burundi where albinos, including children, are chased down, killed and dismembered. One man (in Burundi), was pursued by four armed men and had to hide in the forest for two days. In Burundi’s Ruyigi province, the personal residence of one official has been turned into an albino safehouse, surrounded by a three- metre high wall, where some 45 albinos from the all over the region have taken shelter.

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The Ugandan paper New Vision, has a wonderful section on dates it has arranged - here is one!


Mystery Date: Sincere meets Ahmed



EACH week, one lucky single person gets the chance to choose a dream date. This week, Ahmed, 28, went with Sincere, 20, to Choma Restaurant at Centenary Park, Jinja Road. But a phone call almost disorganises the date

Sincere

Where do you live? Mukono
Occupation: Cosmetologist
Interests: Music / Film
Favourite Film: Secret Of Love
Music RnB, Hiphop
What do people find attractive about you: My eyes and voice
What would you love your mystery dream date to be? Handsome, Caring
What makes you laugh? comedy


Ahmed

Where do you live? Kawempe
Occupation: Hair dressing student
Interests: Watching movies
Favourite Film: My Sister, My love
Music: Ragga
What do people find attractive about you? My humility
What would you love your mystery dream date to be? Religious and understanding
What makes you laugh? Being with a loved one

Ahmed
She appeared almost 40 minutes later and apologised for it. I was impressed by the first sight. Shortly after, the waitress came for our orders. She told me she once had a boyfriend but he left for further studies abroad. “For how long should we be here?” she asked. “One hour,” I replied. “No, let’s take at least two hours,” was her suggestion, which I agreed to.

I asked if I could call her at any time and she said I could. She told me she was a singer and played for me a recording of her music on phone. The song was nice. She said she was looking for a music manager to promote her.

We later exchanged contacts and pledged to keep in touch. We left the place, hand-in-hand.

What did you find striking about her? She was well-dressed and had a nice figure.
Did you observe anything you weren’t comfortable with? She received a call from someone who I thought was the boyfriend, yet she had said there was none.
How do you know it was a boyfriend? She said on phone she loved him.
Did you ask her about it? No, I just acted as though I had not listened to the conversation.
Does that mean you’ve given up on her? I have not yet decided.

Sincere Nangendo

When I arrived, he told me he had been there for two hours. I apologised for turning up late. When he told me he was Muslim, I first inquired whether he minded if I boozed. When he gave me a go ahead, I ordered for a bottle of Guinness beer.

As we were chatting, I asked if he was married but he said he wasn’t, though he lived with his son’s mother. I told him I would get married after six years but then he said it would be too late for me. “Do you have somebody you love?” he asked. I told him that there was no one. When he wanted to know why there was no one, I told him: “True love is like a shadow, you can keep loving people but each time they may leave you for no good reason.” We then exchanged contacts and left.

How did you like the guy? He was friendly.
What did you find unpleasant about him? He does not booze.
Will you go out with him if he invites you? If I am free, I cannot hesitate.
Has he called you since then? He called me this afternoon and I promised to call him next.

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OK – this is the best so far, though some of the stuff is a little wierd (and uncleare - at least to me). I’m not sure if it is the wonderful usage of English, or the comments, or the imagery, or the general topic (apologies and warnings to anyone who is not prepared to read a lot of details about circumcision, sex and related matters!). (‘Kony’ is Joseph Kony, leader of the LRA (Lord’s Resistence Army), a nasty guerilla movement operating in northern Uganda, Garambla National Park is where it had been holed up until recently.)

Ten reasons for circumcising
Wednesday, 31st December, 2008

Hilary Bainemigisha

Happy New Year! 2009 will be a year of the American debt crunch. People will lose money. But for you reading this, may the only major loss you get be your foreskin which, if Government is to be trusted, may come easier than harder.

Government sat and thought, (and I quote): “If Kony cannot come to the mountain, then the mountain will have to be delivered to Garamba bombastically.” They have waited for you to bring your instruments of power for sharpening for too long. Now they are delivering circumcision to your doorstep.

I sat with my cousin during Christmas and tried to convince him to circumcise. After an hour of what looked like a brilliant presentation, he asked: How can I avoid it?No you shouldn’t especially if you are reading this.

I am giving you 10 reasons why you must cut it.

Because you are not circumcised.
Experts advise that if you are already circumcised, you don’t need to do it again. A foreskin is not like Kony’s possessions. He can afford to lose a suit, a guitar, wig, bed – one by one, but the foreskin is different. God could only manage to create one for each male and if you haven’t lost it, you have it.

Measurable protection against HIV infection
Jokes aside, pay attention. Research has allocated a 50% protection from HIV to circumcised men. This means if 100 men have sex with infected women and they are not circumcised, all of them are most likely to be scorched by the virus attack. But if the 100 were circumcised, only 50 may get it and 50 may escape like Kony from Allied attack. It is an added protection to other protective measures like correct and consistent use of condoms.

Protection from STDs
Uncircumcised men are prone to other sexually transmitted diseases like syphilis and gonorrhoea. Studies have associated circumcision with lower rates of syphilis, chancroid and genital herpes and genital warts. It is only those who have never interacted with STDs who will not applaud at this.

Protecting your partner
Oh yes, who doesn’t know how selfish most men are? But circumcision will give you the chance of protecting your partner from cervical cancer without having to refer to your wallet. Actually the human papillomavirus (HPV) lives in the foreskin and no amount of peace talks can get it out. So, striking Garamba would not be such a bad idea.

Protection against Cancers
This HPV is also a known risk factor for penile cancer. Circumcised men are much less likely to harbour the virus, which causes cancer of the penis.

Protection against injury
Throughout its lifetime, a penis is likely to encounter such conditions as tears, rashes and injury while on duty and all these are because the protective foreskin withdraws during sex exposing the softer tissue to the unfriendly environs of the female counterpart. But after circumcision, the penis head hardens like the outer skin and becomes an armour against infection that is if you don’t meet a very drunk but dry circumcised Sebei woman on a day when your brains are not working.

Hygiene, especially in infectious conditions
Circumcision could have started as an effective method of maintaining penile hygiene. Poor hygiene is not only dangerous to you (can cause infection) but also to your partner. The cut can save you several rounds of antibiotics. And for females, the feeling that you are clean, relaxes their super sensitive minds enabling them to enjoy sex.

Reduced sensitivity
One of the leading causes of sexual tension and performance anxiety is premature ejaculation and inability to sustain sex long enough for your partner to run across the finishing line. All these result from high sensitivity of the penis head. Circumcision helps reduce this sensitivity, enabling you run the marathon category of the Kipsiros. Living long enough to see all your partners coming home gives you confidence that will bring down spousal violence and domestic tension.

It will be safe
Government is assuring everybody that the type of circumcision sought will be medical male circumcision. This is done by trained personnel, whose hands are blessed with academic credentials. Imagine handing over your most important tool to people looking for the day’s meal!

It will be free of charge for everyone
Normally, I hate free things except oxygen. But this, you should not resist. For all the taxes you pay, how many of you will ever get the NSSF opportunity Mbabazi got? If you ever want to eat-ko on your tax money, bring your manhood for improvement.

I wish you all a great circumcision year.

hbainemigisha@newvision.co.ug